I turned many a bolt and screw on B-47E aircraft. 'Never used a torque
wrench. Maybe I was just lucky on that point, or maybe I just never heard
about the mess I left behind when I went off to be an "ocifer"and fly
B-52's.
Wilton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 22, 2011 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SDL Oil Pan, now heads falling off
Good! If you only end up with one 6mm bolt broken off, I would suggest
that it won't have a big impact if you leave it that way.
As for torque. you really don't need a torque wrench for 6mm bolts. If
you put your thumb around the rachet and tighten the bolt as tight as you
can with your thumb in that position, you can't over torque a 6mm DIN
bolt. It will be 20-25 ft-lb. I would never use a torque wrench on 6mm
or smaller bolts.
Thanks for the optimism Don. :>
Last night I took Max's kick-in-the-pants and spun the front one
mostly out with a punch; it had enough resistance on the broken nub of
the bolt to spin it, and the bolt was about flush with the bottom edge
of the pan before I was interrupted by Scouts. I anticipate no
problem getting that one out. I am expecting (hoping?) that the same
thing works on the back one, and I can replace bolts, check everything
one last time, and fill with oil this evening.
Thanks all,
-Tim
a little excited at the prospect of all three cars running at the same
time
On Mon, Feb 21, 2011 at 9:36 PM, OK Don <okd...@gmail.com> wrote:
I think you might need to remove the pan to get to the broken bolts ---
On Mon, Feb 21, 2011 at 2:44 PM, Tim C <bb...@crone.us> wrote:
So... I finally "finished" the SDL's oil pan, after the poor thing
sitting all winter today was a nice shiny day - high of 73 - so I was
able to put the new pan on.
As I was taking my last pass around the bolts to make sure everything
was tight, I broke the head off one of the bolts into the block, way
up on the long side of the pan. Then I continued around and did it
again, on the opposite corner (at least it's near the front where I
can reach it)! So... guess I had some weakened bolts, or else my
torque wrench isn't what it used to be. What's a good way to get the
remainder of the bolts out? I need something that can reach about 8
inches up, for the one. These are fairly small bolts (10mm head), I
assume normal steel.
Since I don't have it quite right, I can't, you know, get the
satisfaction of driving the car... but at least I think the big part
is done. :) Thanks for the tips whenever it was that I actually broke
the thing; it turns out the pan had cracked almost in half before, and
been JB Welded back together, so I am glad in retrospect that I did
the right thing and replaced it.
A few notes for future folks doing the job:
- You can avoid taking off the steering linkage in the 126, but it
takes some wiggling to get the pan off. [You will see, the shock is an
inch or two higher than the cross-member; that was the hangup.] If you
want to leave the suspension intact, you will have to raise the engine
higher than the engine shocks will allow while connected, I just let
them dangle and then guided them into the holes while lowering the
engine. All told I think that was easier than moving the linkage and
leaving the shocks connected, but it is a personal preference. :)
- I will never again use gasket sealant when I can avoid it. It took
three days (okay, maybe 6 or 8 hours of actual work) to get the old
seal off my "new" part.
- I think it would take me about 4-6 hours to do it again, if I had
all the time at once. As it was, I took two one-hour blocks to get
tools etc. ready and do a little exploratory work, five hours getting
the original pan out, and four more putting it back in, not counting
seal removal from the new pan. All of these included tool get-out and
put-up time. I am also, as you may guess, fairly slow, and then there
is the whole "haven't looked at the car in a month" effect between
iterations, so YMMV.
- You might want to be a little cautious in tightening the bolts!
Thanks,
-Tim --
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com