Rolf,

Did you have noise narrowed down to #2 and #3 cylinder's valve train in the 
head?  Did you replace your gasket? 


-Max

 




________________________________
From: Rolf <r...@winmutt.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Thu, March 3, 2011 2:02:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 Valve Tick Diagnoses and Fix

I lay good money on the head gasket. I and others have (had) the same 
problem.

Check the video here : 
http://superturbodiesel.com/std/w124-300d-turbo-om603-ticking-noise-under-valve-t-2299.html


The general recommendation from the FInns is to go with the 606 
headgasket as a replacement, it will need some modification for the 603 
(drill two holes).

-Rolf

On 03/03/2011 01:42 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
> Dieselvolk,
>
> My '87 300TD has a valve tick that I want to fix.  I'd appreciate thoughts and
> input on what the problem is and how to fix it.
>
> History:  I've only used Mobil 1 oil since purchasing the car about 50k miles
> ago, when it had about 284k miles  It now has 334k miles.  About 3 years ago
> (~20k miles ago) the tick developed after a 450 mile travel day, during which
> the car ran very hot but did not overheat, due to a long stop-n-go traffic jam
> on the freeway.  Car had increased oil consumption during the trip (used 
> about 
>1
> qt in 500 miles, normally only uses 1 qt per 2000 miles), and the noise began
> the next morning upon first start.
>
> After fussing over the noise for a few days but not really doing anything 
other
> than add oil and determine that the noise originates from either the #2 or #3
> cylinder valves in the head, the noise largely went away on its own.
>
> After that episode, the noise would occasionally come back if the car was
> exposed to cold weather (i.e. around freezing or lower), but once it was 
driven
> the noise would reduce to the point that I really had to listen hard, 
generally
> with the hood up, to see if it was still ticking.
>
> I tried testing the lifters (hydraulic valve clearance compensating elements) 
>in
> accordance with the book, and they passed, but that was at a time when the
> lifter tick noise was reduced.
>
> The current engine oil is now 10k miles old.  It is Mobil 1 5w-40, and the 5k
> oil analysis showed only 0.4% soot.  I sent in the 10k sample last week, 
should
> have results shortly.  All previous oil samples were negative for glycol
> (coolant) and wear metals are pretty normal in my opinion.
>
> This past January the noise came back with a vengeance after I drove the car 
to
> Baltimore, and then car sat in a freezing parking lot for a couple of weeks.  
I
> drove the car home, and since then I've only driven it a few times, but the
> noise is almost constant.  Now it will sometimes be reduced when the engine is
> cold, but once the car warms up it comes right back.
>
> So here's my plan.
>
> 1) Warm up the engine and then pull the valve cover and test the lifters again
> using the book method.  If any fail the test, replace them.  Inspect the
> camshaft lobes for wear.
>
> 2) Change the oil.
>
> 3) Replace the lifters for #2 and #3 on principle (they're noisy).
>
> 4) Pull the head and replace the head gasket, assuming a failure at the oil
> passage between #1 cylinder and timing chain case, allowing oil to flow into 
>the
> timing chain area and back the sump, which reduces the oil pressure to the 
head
> and causes the noise.  I like this option least, because I fear finding cracks
> in the (number 14) head and I'm worried that if I put a cracked head back on,
> the cracks will worsen and I'll start burning coolant or mixing oil and
> coolant.  Right now the upper radiator hose has normal pressure after resting
> overnight, and the engine oil analysis looks good, so I don't think I have
> problems with cracks in the head right now.
>
> Thanks for reading through all this!
>
> Very respectfully,
> /s/
> Max Dillon
> '87 300TD 334k miles
> '95 E300 280k miles
> '73 Balboa 20
> Charleston SC
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