BioDiesel, B100 or B99, works well. Use it with the scotch brite or
the steel wool replacement pads similar to scotch brite. wipe it off
when done with the elbow grease. Then recoat with BioD, light oil,
beeswax, a combination, or similar.
For commercial products, the Mopar penetrating oil will eat rust. It
goes on as a gray foam. Let it soak 8-24 hours, and reapply as
needed. This can cut the elbow grease requirements. You need to be
aware that it does contain water also. The water evaporates on open
surfaces, but can cause problems in enclosed areas like engine
cylinders if used to free stuck cylinders. In that case, you want to
either start the engine and run it after 24 hours, or turn it over to
blow out the penetrating oil and recoat with non-detergent or diff
lube.
For the post and quill, 1" wide emory cloth works well. It won't
take off any significant amount of metal.
I have used baked veg oil for unpainted machined surfaces. Veg oil
will polymerize over time. By coating with veg oil (soy oil, canola,
etc.) then baking at 250 to 300 degrees for an hours until the
coating is not sticky to touch. The process can be repeated for a
thicker coating. Best done when SWMBO is gone for the day. This
produces a durable surface that is not sticky. It is good for the
drill base plate, post, quill, etc. It is essentially the same as
seasoning a skillet. The higher the temp, (up to 450 or so), the
faster it polymerizes. If part of the item is painted, then keep the
temp below 300 to keep from smoking the paint.
I figure that I'm not the only one here who prefers older tools, and
will take the time to spruce them up.
If that's the case, I'm wondering if anyone could give a few
pointers on cleaning them up. (Not necessarily Concours grade
cleanup)
I'm picking up an older (american made) Rockwell/delta drill press
(15" VS, peace logo on blue background era) which is in pretty
decent shape mechanically, but it has accumulated surface rust and
schmutz on the non-moving machined surfaces (the column and the
machined top surface of the base)
Any suggestions on how to remove this?
I was thinking of lightly using a scotch-brite wheel and some WD40,
following the direction of machining with the rotation of the wheel.
Eventually, I'd like to disassemble it and repaint it. Any
suggestions on decent enamels? (I don't need exact color matches,
although finding "stock" colors that are close would be nice!)
Once it's all cleaned up, what's a good way to ensure that t stays
rust-free? I'd think that a light coating of butchers or johnson's
would work better than oil, since oil will get gummy, etc.
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
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_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
