I honestly think there is some voodoo involved in bleeding and adjusting
VW brakes.  Have you tried sacrificing a chicken under a full moon??

Allan

Michael Canfield <slozuk...@gmail.com> writes:

> Dan,
>   I have bench bled 2 masters a dozen or more times.  I have checked, double
> checked and checked again that the master could return all of the way and
> has the proper clearance.  I have replaced the under the trunk lid reservoir
> with a Volvo unit that snaps right on the top of the master cylinder.  I
> have gravity bled, I have pumped the pedal til my leg was going to fall off,
> I have vacuum bled, I have pressure bled and I have made sure the shoes are
> adjusted as tight as they can be and STILL no luck.
> On Sep 5, 2011 10:14 AM, "Dan Penoff" <lwb...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Be sure to bleed the master cylinder before installing it.
>>
>> One other thing that I found really critical when it came to VW brakes
> -make sure the clevis pin on the pedal is adjusted for 1-2mm clearance when
> the pedal is at rest. If the piston in the master cylinder can't return all
> the way you'll never get good pedal.
>>
>> Don't ask me how I know this...
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 5, 2011, at 10:02 AM, Michael Canfield <slozuk...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Max,
>>> Discs would be a nice upgrade but all of my drum parts are new. Just have
>>> not been able to get a good pedal. Pump the crap out of them and it will
>>> lock the rear wheels but nothing on the front with two different master
>>> cylinders. If Grant's backwards but logical method doesn't work I am
> going
>>> to try an OE German master cylinder and bleed again, hopefully with
> better
>>> results.
>>>
>>> Mike
>>> On Sep 5, 2011 9:13 AM, "Max Dillon" <meadedil...@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>>> You need some disc brake parts from a Porch of the same era, Roger knows
>>> where one is...
>>>>
>>>> Max (learned to drive on cars with drum brakes)
>>>> --
>>>> Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
>>>>
>>>> Michael Canfield <slozuk...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Grant,
>>>> Brilliant idea. I have a VW Bug that runs about 12.5 seconds in the1/4
>>>> mile but seems to take a 1/2 mile to stop after replacing every brake
> part
>>>> and going through gallons of brake fluid trying different methods of
>>>> bleeding. I am going to the parts store asap to get the oil pump can and
> I
>>>> am certain your method will finally get the job done.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks, Mike
>>>> Who wishes he had mines big enough to park his M37's in.
>>>> On Sep 4, 2011 7:27 PM, "G Mann" <g2ma...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>> Over the past 40 years I have owned, I believe, every pressure bleed
>>> brake
>>>>> system, vacuum bleed system, and every other crackpot tool invented to
>>>> bleed
>>>>> brakes. They now all reside on my tool collection board of tools that
>>> cost
>>>>> loads of money, don't work well [or not at all] and "I would never buy
>>>>> again.
>>>>>
>>>>> Some years ago I started using a system that DOES work well, Doesn't
> cost
>>>>> much, and so far hasn't failed me. It allows me to bleed both hydraulic
>>>>> clutch systems and brake systems without a helper, truly one man. Since
> I
>>>>> started using it, I now change out the hydraulic fluids as a regular
>>>>> scheduled item.
>>>>>
>>>>> Here is how it works for me:
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. Open the master cylinder cover, lay a clean cloth over it [stray
>>>>> dirt/bugs/etc are forbidden]
>>>>>
>>>>> 2.
>>>>> Hook a common squeeze bulb [like you siphon gas into your lawn mower
>>> with]
>>>>> to the bleed nipple farthest from the master cylinder [play with fuel
>>> line
>>>>> hose sizes to get it done for your particular application]... drop the
>>>> exit
>>>>> hose into a receiving container [you are going to dispose of it right?]
>>> If
>>>>> you already have a hand vacuum pump with a receiver bottle... that can
>>>> work
>>>>> as well.
>>>>>
>>>>> 3. Squeeze pump the old fluid out of the master cylinder till it's
> empty,
>>>>> repeat operation 2. for each bleed nipple to evacuate each line from
> the
>>>>> master to wheel cylinder.
>>>>>
>>>>> 4. Wipe clean all the "gunk" left inside the Master Cylinder. [I often
>>> use
>>>>> spray brake cleen at this point to get all the slime, then carefully
> dry
>>>> it
>>>>> out]
>>>>>
>>>>> 5. Using an old fashioned metal hand pump oil can [like your
> grandfather
>>>>> had... they are still available... cost maybe $5... and never use it
> for
>>>>> oil... just this] fill it with brake fluid.. attach a properly sized
>>>> length
>>>>> of fuel hose to the squirt tube and the other end to the brake bleed
>>>> nipple.
>>>>> I like to use a generous length here so I can work outside the wheel
>>>> instead
>>>>> of under the car...
>>>>>
>>>>> 6. Lay the cover loosely over the Master Cylinder.. [CAUTION.. if you
> do
>>>> not
>>>>> do this you will have brake fluid where you do not want it,, plus a
> mess
>>>> to
>>>>> clean up]
>>>>>
>>>>> 7. Start pumping brake fluid backwards from the nipple... to the master
>>>>> cylinder... start at the longest line run first... WATCH FOR FLUID AT
> THE
>>>>> MASTER CYLINDER... it will come nicely.. DO NOT fill the master from
> only
>>>>> one nipple....
>>>>>
>>>>> 8. Go to the next longest line.. pump brake fluid same way... increase
>>>> fluid
>>>>> amount in Master cylinder... go to next longest.. etc etc...
>>>>>
>>>>> 9. Of course, close each nipple when you are done pumping at that
>>> station.
>>>>> Top off the Master Cylinder to required level...
>>>>>
>>>>> 10. Brakes are now bled... all air has been pushed from lowest point to
>>>>> highest point.. a direction of travel that follows laws of nature and
>>>>> physics..
>>>>>
>>>>> Total cost for tools... something less than $15. System how has clean
>>>> fluid
>>>>> from top to bottom... SHMBO has not been disturbed or irritated with
>>> "pump
>>>>> it more" commands. [you know how well that is received... in summer
> heat
>>>> or
>>>>> winter cold right?]
>>>>>
>>>>> CAUTION:.. DO NOT let the pump can run out of fluid. Check the Master
>>>>> Cylinder often, [ie. don't over fill it, easy to do with this system]
> If
>>>>> that should happen, just suck some out with your hand squeeze bulb into
>>>> the
>>>>> receiving container. Check the pump can also. If you pump air instead
> of
>>>>> fluid because you let the can run empty.. you get to start over....
>>>>> OOOooooppppssss...
>>>>>
>>>>> Works for me... HTH,,,[Hope This Helps,]
>>>>>
>>>>> Grant...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sun, Sep 4, 2011 at 3:40 PM, Max Dillon <meadedil...@bellsouth.net
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I have both pressure bleeder and mity vac, the pressure bleeder is
>>> great.
>>>>>> However, when installing a new master cylinder, I run a line from
>>> bleeder
>>>>>> valve on nearest caliper back to the reservoir, fill the reservoir,
> and
>>>> pump
>>>>>> the fluid around in a circle (master cylinder to caliper via hard
> brake
>>>>>> line, caliper back to reservoir via tube from bleeder valve) until no
>>>> more
>>>>>> bubbles are present, then pressure or gravity bleed to make sure all
> the
>>>> air
>>>>>> is out.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Max
>>>>>> --
>>>>>> Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jerry Herrman <jer...@san.rr.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Now, I will start out by acknowledging that this question is premature
>>> in
>>>>>> that I have done no research or checking before asking this question.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Is there a "one-size-fits-all" brake bleeder? I have various cars
>>>> spannning
>>>>>> the last 50 years, and each seems to have a different master cylinder
>>>> (M/C)
>>>>>> configuration. The cars are listed below.
>>>>>> Having recently changed a M/C, and having spent considerable time
>>>> bleeding
>>>>>> the brakes by the tried and true "pump the brake pedal by myself"
>>> method,
>>>> I
>>>>>> thought surely a pressurized bleeder would save time and aggravation.
>>>>>> Is this true? Is it easy to work? Can I have one bleeder which will do
>>>> them
>>>>>> all?
>>>>>> Confession time - I have never changed brake fluid, unless it was
>>>> necessary
>>>>>> after opening the system and replacing parts I would like now to be
> able
>>>> to
>>>>>> do this on a regular basis.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jerry
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 82 MB 240D
>>>>>> 60 Olds
>>>>>> 72 Ford F250
>>>>>> 91 Volvo 240
>>>>>> 05 Odyssey (wife made me buy it)
>>>>>> 07 Highlander (wife's car)
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> __________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
>>>> signature
>>>>>> database 6435 (20110904) __________
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://www.eset.com
>>>>>>
>>>>>> _____________________________________________
>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
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>>>>>>
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>>>>>>
>>>>>> _____________________________________________
>>>>
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>>>>>>
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>>>>>>
>>>>> _____________________________________________
>>>>
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>>>> _____________________________________________
>>>>
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>>>> _______________________________________
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>>>>
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>>> _______________________________________
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>>
>> _______________________________________
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>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> _______________________________________
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>
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-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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