aren't there oil lines to and from the turbo for  cooling purposes? The return 
(I believe) is a notorious leaker - at  least on SD's...mine had to be 
repaired...oil running down, all over  the pan, etc.
  
  Chris

"Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  No, not really.  Turbo could 
dump oil into intake/exhaust if the seals 
go bad. Rare though.

Luther Gulseth wrote:

>  Stuck rings....wouldn't that show in startup or power? It starts fine  when 
> it's cold (in Kansas with freezing temps) and it has plenty of  power. 
> How would the turbo be dumping?
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" 
> Sent: Nov 28, 2005 5:46 PM
> To: Mercedes mailing list 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '82 300CD oil loss
> 
> If you dont have any big leaks(which you would using that much oil then 
> you either have some bad/stuck rings or valve seal problems.  turbo 
> could also be dumping oil as well.
> 
> 
> 
> Luther   KB5QHU
> Alma, Ark
> '83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
> '82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi
> 
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> 
> 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 210K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
                
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Ok, the ground issue is becoming clearer, but when the Pertronix is
installed, and there is no 12V green wire, how does the switchbox
know to switch?  This wire does not exist with Pertronix installed.

It was all working before, and I fear I may have screwed something up by
cranking the car over with that 12V point wire not connected.  Could it be
possible to fry that switchbox if that 12V wire was not connected and the
engine was turned over?  If so, is there any way to check that transistor
box?  I read 32 ohm between that 12V point wire terminal and the ground.

Jim



On 11/27/05, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Voltage to the coil isn't what you need here, although you need to
> check the condition of the two ignition resistors up on the fender --
> badly corroded connections will cause endless problems.
>
> The coil is GROUNDED via the swtichbox -- you must have the correct
> wire from the box connected to the - connection on the coil.
>
> The black lead from the new points connects to the same place the green
> lead did -- the points should show 12V, I think, but will drop to 0
> when closed as they only trip the transistor swtich.
>
> The test you need to make is to check for ground on the wire from the
> switchbox to negative coil terminal as you open and close the points
> with the ignition on.
>
> Most likely, you have the wires confused, or a bad connection at the
> resistors.
>
> Grounding the coil wire will prevent it firing at all, as it works by
> "charging" the winding (points closed) and firing a spark as the
> magnetic field collapses as the points open.  Normal point ignitions
> ground the coil via the points, MB transistor systems use the points as
> an electronic switch to trigger the transistor switchbox to ground the
> coil.
>
> Peter
>
>


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[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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