Some notes from my head gasket job a couple years back:
Make absolutely sure that oil supply pipe is free of the block when
you attempt to remove the head, mine leaked after straightening it
back out, never did get fixed (car was wrecked soon after).
You need all new head bolts, if you re-use them they always fail to
keep the gasket sealed. Gas engines are fine, the diesel is not.
Absolutely check the valve guides, they are a known weak point.
Easy to fix. Make absolutely POSITIVE that the machine shop
installs them to factory specs (very little clearance) -- it's
common around here to want them very sloppy for some reason. I got
a rebuilt head with at least 0.010" side clearance, had to have the
job redone before we could use the head (and new valve seats to
boot).
For just a gasket change, leave the injectors in, don't clean the
pistons, and don't clean the head except in the seal area. Knocks
like crazy for a couple days if you shine it all up. If you need to
check for cracks, clean it, otherwise leave the carbon on.
You can leave the turbo and exhaust manifold in place, much easier.
However, you should also check the turbo for condition -- if there
is ANY front to back play or roughness in rotation, the bearings are
shot. It' not impossible for the front seal to be OK and the rear
to leak, the damage is usually done by coked oil on the main shaft
and it can eat out the rear seal first.
Good luck -- your car will run MUCH better after you put the new
gasket in. I need one as well, but it will have to wait until I get
the suspension fixed, I'm out of free cash.
Peter
Thanks.
About carbon and cracks: My experience is that the cracks show up in
the carbon- IF you can keep it dry. So, I like to inspect the head
with all the carbon in place. Keeping it dry is the hard part.
Knowing where to look for cracks is also a good thing to know. Aside
from the prechamber to the valves, as in the iron heads, I am not
sure where else cracks on the aluminum heads.
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