No, that is not what I am saying at all. Follow
the book procedure. On a normal bolt, the more
you turn it, the tighter it gets. On the stretch
bolts, as you make the two 90º turns per the
book , at some point in the turn it no longer
takes increasing power as the bolt turns. This
means you have reached the point of elasticity
of the bolt. (as designed to do) This is when
the bolt stretches. WHat you feel on the handle
is a more or less linear increase of force, then
a levelling off. On the second turn, the last
30-40 º of turn is typically stretch.
You only measure the stretch when you take them out of the head.
Or are you asking about retorquing? I have never
seen an instruction for retorquing. If you want
to retorque one at a time, then yes, I think you
can pull, measure, then retorque. I am not sure
about the 10 min wait. You could do all of them
fhe first 90, then wait 10, and do the second
turn on all and still satisfy the book without
removing the head.
You could also try a rudimentary Cyl head leakage
test. through the inj hole or the GP hole to see
if you can hear any leaks.
So should I pull one bolt at a time, measure
stretch to make sure it is still within spec,
then torque in the three stages without the ten
minute wait before the last 90 degree turn, or
do I need to keep the wait?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
That is a good idea. You can feel the bolts
yield. To my thinking, if you get 85 or 95 º of
turn, as long as you feel the bolt yield, it
won't make that much difference. So I don't
think you have to be that accurate.
Loren
I may try something along those lines, attach a
pointer to the socket and lay a 90 degree guide
on the head.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
Mitch Haley <m...@voyager.net> wrote:
Max Dillon wrote:
I thought you had a special wrench to measure the 90 degree
rotations.
Snap-On has one of those.
>Or you can paint 4 lines or arrows on your socket.
>
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