Jim

The alternator is easy to test.  Just pull the connector from the back of
the alternator and see if the current drain stops.  By the way, an internal
leak can kill the battery but it would not register on your ammeter.  The
alternator is the most likely cause (shorted diode(s)) in my experience.
The reported 320ma leak should not kill a good battery in 8 hrs (only a few
amp-hours) but if you have a bad diode, you are not getting much recharge
while driving ... so the battery was probably low.

Scott Ritchey
Kittrell NC
1982 300SD 220K
1979 300TD 350K



-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Ervine
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 9:18 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD


Jim Cathey wrote:

> I vote alternator as I don't know how you would be measuring 320mA
> for an _internal_ battery short (a common failure mode), so my best
> guess is a bad diode in the alternator.  This is a nice double whammy
> as it also prevents the alternator from charging properly.  Glow plug
> relay is also separately fused.  Alternator and GP relay are both
> easy to unplug, leaving only the starter as a final suspect.

I unplugged the harness for the GP relay, and the current draw did not
change,
so I think that rules that out.  The alternator still charges the battery
just
fine, though.  Tomorrow afternoon's first troubleshooting step will be to
remove
the connection on the alternator.

> You might also check for auxiliary fuses, you could have missed some.
> Various MB's can have a basket-load of them, particularly the ones
> in the 70's.

I'll consult the ETM further to check on this.

--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi

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