Is anti-seize used on the GP threads? The reason I ask is because _*if
*_the threaded portion needs to go to ground so the GPs will light
properly, it would not be a good idea. However, if the GPs light
without a good ext. ground, (I am wondering if there is a internal
ground of some sort) the AS would be a good idea...
LarryT
On 5/5/2013 4:31 PM, clay wrote:
Topsider was used twice to do it at home. I finally just had my indy take care
of the issue and stopped running high BioD concentrations.
These engines are also known to weld in the #6 glow plug. I have had the head
off twice to get that dealt with in a decade. The first time was due to cross
threading, which repeated the error induced by the prior repair to that glow.
That was repaired and retapped, and for unknown reasons, maybe carbon, it
sealed itself in again. Past January the car was in the shop for three dead
glow plugs (and #6 had failed) so they all came out with the head having to
come off and more tapping and the admonition that the GP should probably be
tweaked once a year to keep it free. New exhaust manifold gasket each time.
clay
On May 5, 2013, at 5:06 AM, John Reames wrote:
The ones for the OM606 are longer by necessity; making the engine 4 valve per
cylinder resulted in the injector being placed between the camshafts, so each
one is down in a hole (that is slightly deeper than the injector is long).
Draining said holes of accumulated diesel fuel is quite fun.
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On May 4, 2013, at 18:15, "WILTON" <wilt...@nc.rr.com> wrote:
Lengths for the return hoses is very easy; remove old one and cut new one to
length to match; often, somebody else has installed one or more excessively
long, if so, cut new one a little shorter. A meter's a plenty for complete
set. Several years ago, when my tremor was so bad that I could not change the
tubes myself, I asked Indy to replace 3 or 4 of 'em on my 350SDL and had left a
meter of the hose/tube on center console. Well, I may as well use ALL of it -
shonuf - 'used every bit of it on about 4 tubes - way the Hell too long!
Trent sells it by meter.
Wilton
----- Original Message ----- From: "John Reames" <jwrea...@comcast.net>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2013 5:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1999 Mercedes E300 Turbodiesel Fuel Injector Leak
Issues(UNCLASSIFIED)
Wetness around the injectors is still likely to be bypass hoses, unless its up
around the nut, in which case the line should be disconnected/reconnected.
I believe that you need 2-3 meters of hose for the job, but I haven't done it
in a while. (I've got a gauge stick around somewhere though!)
The easiest way to get the exact lengths of the hoses is to look them up in the
EPC.
Wetness around the delivery valves (on the injection pump, which is half hiding
under the intake manifold), is a whole separate ball of wax; that will mean
re-sealing the delivery valves (which is an annoying, fiddly job)
If you will be doing your own maintenance on the car, you might want to leave
the vertically-oriented bolt that goes through the tab on the charge air pipe
and a bracket before threading into the EGR valve out; it is a MAJOR PITA to
get to (there is not even a straight shot from below). You may also want to
keep a spare intake manifold gasket around.
BTW, I think there's a detailed write-up on the delivery valve reseal floating
around. The EPC does NOT list the seals at all for an OM606 of any variant,
but they are the same as the ones on an OM601/OM602/OM603. Likewise, WIS does
not list a job for re-sealing the valves; dealer procedure is to replace the
pump. (This is likely due to the fact that you will have at least a 10% chance
of one that needs to be re-done immediately (which of course means the intake
manifold has to come back off))
(2x 210.025, 1x 123.133 in the driveway)
--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On May 4, 2013, at 14:47, Mitch Haley <m...@voyager.net> wrote:
WILTON wrote:
Whenever I've had fuel wetness around my injectors, I've been lucky enough that
only the fuel return tubes that go from injector-to-injector, etc. (small,
cloth-covered, rubber tubes), have been leaking and simply replacing those has
cured the leaking/wetness. Are your return tubes dry?
He's got the 24v OM606, with its own kind of fuel leaks.
They pretty much all do it or have had recent leak repairs.
Mitch.
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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