Nice. I will store that info away in the back of my brain for future use. Does sound odd that 3 pumps are not working. Very curious to know what would happen if original pump was put back on.
Seeing there is so much trouble I would not have a problem at all asking how many of these jobs he has successfully completed. He should not have a problem with answering honestly as he should understand your doubts. Mike On Jul 1, 2013 12:05 PM, "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com> wrote: > Since this problem started with the installation of another IP, and >> persists with a second IP, I would be very suspicious of the installer - >> doing the same thing twice and expecting a different result! Now, it is >> possible that you have two defective IPs, I've had that with alternators >> from FLAPS, but used Bosch IPs don't usually give that kind of trouble. I >> like the suggestion of checking the timing with the drip tube! >> >> THe ALDA, injectors, etc. did not "go bad" just when you changed the IP. >> It >> about has to be IP timing. >> > > Agreed Listen to OK Don. > > You don't have to go through the brain damage of drip tube timing. Just > take off the valve cover and the #1 injection line. turn the engine over > slowly (in the operating direction, CW facing the front of the engine.) > and watch the cam lopes on #1. Exhaust is at the front of the engine, and > #1 intake is the second lobe. After the intake lobe pushed the intake > valve open and then lets it close, clear the fuel out of the taperec part > of the top of the DV union on the top of the IP. You can blow this out > with a soda straw, or soak it up with a paper towel. then turn the engine > verrrry slooooowly until you see fuel start to rise in the small part of > the DV union. This IS the beginning of delivery. Now read the cranshaft > damper degree wheel at the pointer. It should be the setting for start of > delivery or a couple of degrees late. If you don't get fuel, and you > continue to turn the engine over until the exhaust valve opens and fuel is > delivered about the time the exhaust valve closes, your IP is 360º out of > time on the crank, or 180º out of time on the IP shaft. > > While this method is not 100% accurate for timing the IP, it WILL tell you > if you are in the ballpark. I repeat it several times, because each time > I can get closer to the actual start of injection. I used this method for > timing OM 621s for years and I could get it within 1/2 degree of drip tube > timing without all the hassle, or the danger of introducing dirt in the IP > when you remove the DV for the trip tube timing by the book. > > If your timing is within 5 or even 10 degrees, you won't get the symptoms > you describe. These engines are pretty forgiving. If timing is the issue, > it was to be WAY out to get those symptoms. > > THat is why I asked a couple weeks ago how many times has this guy > successfully changed IPs. It is a relevant question even if it makes you > uncomfortable. > > ______________________________**_________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com > To search list archives > http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/<http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com<http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com> > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
