No, I am at work. I sent him the following information from people on our
forum.. with emphasis on the last paragraph. He agreed to try it. Manfred,
will this get the timing close? He has not called back yet.
Mike
Mike I have to take this one question at a time.
Did you see the mechanic do a drip timing test with the valve
cover off the engine?
Manfred
Without the tool, I had to invent a way to do the same thing (get the
pump in time) so I read a lot and thought about what has to be
accomplished, then developed ways to do it without the expensive MB
tools.
You can do the same. Take off the valve cover, turn the engine over
slowly. watch the first camshaft lobe depress the first valve (#1
exhaust) then keep turning until the #1 intake valve goes down. Then
turn the engine over until you can see the degree marks on the crank
dampener. stop at 45º BTDC. Then clean and remove the #1 injector
line, clean the fuel out of the tapered part of the DV union on the
pump where the injector line fastens to the pump. turn the engine over
very slowly until you see the fuel just start to move up in the DV
union. Stop! Read the degrees on the crank dampener where the pointer
is. That is roughly the start of delivery.
That is all you need to do. Check where the beginning of fuel delivery
is.
Good suggestion, Loren.
Of course, you are assuming that it's been installed close to correct
timing. If the pump is 180 degrees out, he may not see the fuel welling
up in the delivery valve at the correct place of the crank rotation.
Also, like we discussed earlier this year when I was mystified by my
diesel with the bad delivery valve seals continuing to leak fuel, he may
have fuel welling up before the start of delivery and should look for a
stoppage of the welling up when the piston blocks the opening to the fuel
reservoir.
Yes, if there is no fuel delivery at the expected
place, you keep turning the engine over until you
get delivery. While we might expect the
beginning of delivery to be 360º out, it may
well be anywhere. the kleb SDL was way out of
time, but actually ran pretty well. Well enough
that Kaleb never figured out it was way off.
Michael E. Esh
me...@horizonenv.com
michael...@mac.com
http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
(C) 231.286.2344
On Jul 26, 2013, at 02:08 PM, MG <trainpain2...@aol.com> wrote:
Mike I have to take this one question at a time.
Did you see the mechanic do a drip timing test with the valve
cover off the engine?
Manfred
Date: Fri, 26 Jul 2013 12:59:19 +0000 (GMT)
From: Mike Esh <michael...@mac.com
The saga continues.
I have the new /used pump installed at 180 degrees from normal
and we are still having an issue of very low power. The mechanic
had a very difficult time getting the pump installed at this
position. He said it kept moving off several teeth as he placed
in position. He ended up setting up the pump normally and
setting the engine at 180 degrees off. He then tried to drip
time off the #1 cylinder and the fuel did not show up. We tried
drip timing off # 5 and that appeared to work but we are still
having the same low power and smoke. It starts and idles very
well, just no power. He had set the valve clearance previously
and will be testing compression today. I will keep you informed
as to our progress or lack thereof.
This is taking so long because he is working in his spare time to
help me keep my cost down. If we cannot figure this out do you
think I should try a new/rebuilt injector pump?
To the skeptics who ask me to question his experience: he has
changed many Mercedes pumps but has never had any trouble timing
them. So he is indeed, inexperienced at troubleshooting them.
All help and suggestions are being passed along.
Thanks for all the help thus far,
Mike
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