I used to make a little map of the valves and cross them out as I did them. 
Made it easy to keep track of what I had done and kept me from missing one. I 
also did all the intakes at one time and then all the exhausts. That way you're 
working with the same set of gauges.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 8, 2014, at 9:56 PM, "Scott Ritchey" <ritche...@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> 
> I would add that the gap will change as you tighten the jam nut.  So measure
> the gap before you loosen it.  Guess at the required adjustment and do it
> then retighten and measure.  After a few valves you'll get good at guessing
> and dial each one in with only one or two attempts.  Also, I make a picture
> of the valves and write down the before and after gaps for each valve.  That
> way I don't miss any or double adjust any.  It's also interesting to see how
> much adjustment was needed.  Also, wear plastic (like nitrile) gloves;
> Diesel oil stains.
> Scott
> 
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Randy
>> Bennell
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 6:08 PM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Subject: [MBZ] adjusting valves
>> 
>> I have been more than a bit negligent in terms of keeping the valves set
>> on my old 300D.
>> I bought the tools and the new gasket but have yet to do it.
>> I was thinking about it this past weekend and did a bit of searching
>> online.
>> The advice offered was pretty loose.
>> My past experience with gas engines required one to turn to the specific
>> timing marks etc.
>> The advice offered on the diesels seemed to be just to turn the cam so
>> that the point sticks up.
>> Is that considered "close enough"?
>> I have never disconnected the throttle linkage? I seem to recall someone
>> suggested one just pops them apart by prying with a screwdriver?
>> Is that correct? I really don't want to damage anything by my own lack
>> of knowledge on how to do it.
>> 
>> Randy
>> 
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> 
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