The only possible way this could even remotely work is if you are capable of doing ALL the work on the car. The minute you farm something out you're behind.
I've gone this route once, buying a Klebmobile thinking it would be relatively simple to buy cheap and save money doing the DIY thing and the numbers just don't work out. This is even more relevant when you factor in the cost of your time. I still believe that the cheapest way to get the nicest and best example of a car is to buy the best one you can afford. Dan > On Aug 21, 2014, at 5:08 AM, Hendrik and Fay via Mercedes > <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: > > No same principle applies, say you buy a $500 rust bucket that needs major > mechanical work as well. Itemise all the costs and the figure will be way > high, depending on how much you can do. > Plus a neglected car is more likely to break down and leave you by the side > of the road, compared to one that has been maintained. > Would you think that you could get a 500 beater up to the standard of that > green 123 for 7k? > Perhaps if you have access to a fully equipped workshop and spray booth and > know how to handle all the tools like a pro. > How much is a quality paint job these days? Sure anyone that is handy with > their hands can do a course to learn the art and that is a challenge. > Or you can spend the 7.9k on the car and go fishing with it, while some other > slob starts a rolling restoration and then gets tired of it, half way through. > How many of these "was gonna fix er up" ads do we see in a year? > If working on cars is your hobby, then yeah a 'good value' car that is not > perfect but is not worn out is the go, do the essential to get it to a > standard of reliability and then tinker away at it, plus if you buy at the > bottom of the depreciation cycle you should not lose too much money on it. > > Hendrik > whose cars are not quite rolling restorations > >> On 21/08/14 04:53, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote: >> There is an exception to that rule. If you to plan on a restoration, it >> pays to purchase a *running car* as cheaply as possible so you can take >> your time in making the most cost effective improvements at a leisurely >> pace.. This explains my 18 year enjoyment and simultaneous restoration of >> a 1970 280SE 3.5 coupe that had lots of issues, but I could at least drive >> it safely while fixing and restoring things. > > On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 12:44 PM, OK Don via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com > >> wrote: >> My experience as well. How much will you have to pay for any MB with 68k >> miles accumulated at the standard rate of 12k/yr. (a 2008 model)? It looks >> like a bargain from that perspective. >> >> >> On Wed, Aug 20, 2014 at 4:37 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes < >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote: >> >>> Hendrik makes a very valid point, and one that pretty much applies to any >>> used car purchased. That is, spend the money up front for the very best >>> example you can find. You'll be better off than buying a fixer-upper or >> one >>> that needs work, as it will most likely end up costing you more. >>> >>> BTDT myself. >>> >>> Dan > > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > > All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those > individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has > no control over the content of the messages of each contributor. _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those individuals are responsible for the content of the post. The list owner has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
