I have not done any rears so can't comment on that job, but I have
rebuilt front suspensions on both a 123 and 126. Neither job is
particularly difficult, having the spring compressor is the key. I
would just do it right, take it apart, replace all the wear items, and
not fool with bodges -- I doubt if it will take any longer. As long as
you are doing it you should replace all the rubber, ball joints, and
various steering components then get it aligned. All new parts will add
up to about $900-$1k, talk to Dr. Fatty to get some good bits. Take
some pics and follow the manual procedures for sequence, torque, etc.
Flex disks on the 126 are not the funnest job, it's kinda tight up in
there and somewhat fiddly, but not too difficult as long as you get the
car up and you have some room, and maybe a helper to slide the exhaust
system out/in, and the driveshaft (which you must make sure goes back
exactly as it came out). While you're under there probably do the shift
bushings too, the bushings are only a couple bux and you will have the
car jacked up to get under it.
--R
On 1/31/15 4:59 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:
Looking for BTDT advice here. I have a 1982 300SD that still has original
suspension rubber and does NOT ride like new. I'm considering a DIY job as
well as hiring an indy.
I saw this tool on Ebay: http://tinyurl.com/psqrpul that allegedly lets one
replace the rear swing-arm bushings as well as the lower front control-arm
bushings without actually removing the front control arm. I have Klann
spring compressor for unloading the front springs so this seems like it may
be a lot easier than removing all the stuff from the control arm. Also, the
ball joints are only a year old so no worries there.
First question: Is it advisable to try to use this tool or should I just
pull the whole front lower arm (or hire a pro)?
I replaced the rear subframe bushings on a 123 wagon using just a jack and
screwdrivers (to pry out the old bushing) and it wasn't too bad. But I
haven't done this on a 126.
Second question: Is the rear subframe bushing on a 126 a DIY job without
special tools?
The guide rod mounts were replaced (maybe 15 years ago) but the replacements
must have been poor quality because they have deteriorated visibly. I'm not
sure if this is causing a problem yet and the bushings where the guide rod
mount bracket attaches to the body seem unabailable or super expensive. So
'm wondering if this needs to be addressed or left well enough alone.
Final question: Considering my current crappy guide rod mounts and other
poor quality rubber hat's out there, am I better off doing nothing or are
good quality rubber brands (Febi? Meyle? Lemforder? Other?) that I should
seek?
I also need to replace the flex disks on this car but that's a separate
matter.
Unfortunately, this car doesn't get driven enough but I'd still like to keep
it up.
Thanks for any insight.
Scott
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