Or the solution I like best is to install the clear standyne filter
between the lift pump and the Main (second) (bigger) filter. These
are available at any FLAPS, and John Deere dealer and many other
places. (just ask for a JD 4020 filter) They filter out smaller
particles than the main filter and it is easy to see if you have black
gunk and need biocide in the tank. It is also easy to see if you have
water and need to drain the filter.
Once this is done, you no longer need to change the main filter, except
maybe once every 20 years or so on principle.
Others advocate Racor filters, but they are not see through. For this
reason, I prefer the Stanadyne (Roosa Master) Master Filter.
The newest JD i've had (70 HP Japanese yanmar) had a stanadyne fuel
manager filter. It shut off the engine when water was detected in the
filter. It is NOT see-through, so I still prefer the Master Filter.
Sample replacement filter: (i have seen them as low as $12-13)
http://tinyurl.com/hk36z9u Because of larger capacity, They will last
as long as 2-3 MB main filters. On the cars where I have installed
one, I have never needed to replace the filter, except every 20 years or
so, on principle. A uses mounting bracket is going for about $35 on
fleabay. The first one I bought in 1972 cost about $70 for the complete
unit, new. (Filter, mounting base, and clip)
rogerhga--- via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
November 29, 2016 at 10:09 AM
For 20 years now, I've always used the copper washer on the secondary
filter on both of my 617s. A few times, the filter came with an
aluminum washer and it did NOT seal properly. I simply installed the
copper washer and used my long box end wrench to tighten as much as I
dared without risking stripping threads, etc. It has always worked for
me. But I don't replace the secondary filter that often, but I replace
the plastic primary more often. In my experience, the secondary only
catches water.
Best Wishes,
Roger
Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com
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