A couple of general comments on this thread: 1) Putting on two snow tires - meaning real snows, with the snowflake on the mountain symbol (not "M+S" rated tires, which means NOTHING)... is half useless. You need FOUR snow tires. You do expect to steer, and/or stop, right? A set of snows usually last for many seasons. A couple hundred bucks, spread out over a few years, is waaaaay cheaper than wrecking your car, or getting stranded somewhere.
2) Anyone who thinks "all season" tires work great in snow or ice either does not live in real ice or snow country, or has never driven a car with four real snow tires (again, an M+S rating does not mean "snow tire"). (flame suit on) Dave M. (Four studded Kumhos KW-11's on the VW, studless Kumhos on the 300E) > ------------------------------ > Date: Thu, 9 Mar 2006 08:47:14 -0500 > From: "Mike Canfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Traction in adverse conditions > > > Dwight said: > > "The problem now is that the studs are worn > down, but there is a lot of aggressive tread left -so I feel as if I am > throwing away good tires." > > Just because the points are gone off the studs doesn't mean they won't do > the job. When the tire flexes it will allow the edges of the stud to bite. > Actually most studded tires get very poor traction on dry and/or wet roads > until the studs are worn down some. I'm sure the old Chevy II(My FAVORITE > Chevy) would spin the studded tires quite easily until they were "broken > in". > > I have run Blizzaks on my 62 Buick Special wagon(yeah with the 215 > aluminum V8 and 3 on the tree) and they WORK GREAT!!! So good in fact that > you will want them on the front as well so you can steer when they dig in. > Only complaints I had were the price and the fact that they wear very fast > on the highway. No need for studs at all with them though as the siping and > soft compound do a very good job of gripping anything they can find. > > My $.02, Mike
