if it comes on at 37, that would be great. I'll have to fiddle with it  when I 
get back from vacation. You are on the "list" - don't know what  they should go 
for. If he wants to get rid of them, should we offer $10  each? Comes with 
EVERYTHING you need (electrical and hose connectors,  wires, etc)
  
  What do you think? May low ball at $5 each?
  
  Chris

Robert & Tara Ludwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  If it's like most stanadyne 
heaters it should come on in the mid 30's ( 
where untreated junk diesel starts to cloud ) The factory stanadyne 
heater on my truck comes on at about 37 deg. The thing is self 
regulating, has some little circuit in it and is built into the filter 
head..

I'd be interested in one or two of those things if cheap enough.

-----------Robert

Christopher McCann wrote:
>  from the instructions: "heat is supplied only when the temperature is  low 
> enough for wax particles to form. Power supply is to from an  automotive type 
> 12 VDC battery with an alternator system."
>   
>   So it must have a temp sensor that switches it on and off - neat.
>   
>  "Locate a 12 volt wire (off and on with ignition switch) on a circuit  able 
> to handle the extra 7.5 amps that the heater will require."
>   
>  Suggestions on the back for many makes, but not Mercedes - all but one  
> suggests 12 VDC source as Electrical shutoff lead on injection pump.  For 
> Toyota a specific terminal in the fusebox.
>   
>   Hmm...wonder where it should go an a W126 MB?
>   
>  The point isn't to heat the fuel so it combusts better but to heat the  fuel 
> as it starts to get wax crystals at cloud point. It rarely gets  that cold 
> here, and when it does, a spritz of GE-Betz OTR8932Q is the  cheapest and 
> best way to handle it. This will do nothing to help you  start your car. If 
> you don't treat your fuel and the lines and the tank  gel up, this will not 
> help. If the fuel clouds, but does not gel, it  won't help starting much 
> either, but WILL keep it running once started  (wax won't clog filter, it 
> will be melted by this thing).
>   
>  Hmm - Nifty device, but I would MUCH prefer it warm the fuel not at the  
> cloud point of diesel BUT AT THE FREEZING POINT OF WATER...becuase  
> emulsified water particles will freeze and clog your filter too. I'm  MUCH 
> more worried about that.
>   
> Hmm - It could be  rigged up to do that automatically...or you could bypass 
> the timer  entirely and put a switch on the dash and turn it on when it's 
> below  freezing or somehow change it to come on at 32, BUT THEN, it will be  
> supplying heat as if it were at the cloud point (much colder) which  will be 
> WAY too much heat...maybe even enough to start a fire.
>   
>  BTW, WHERE are you? If it is regularly below freezing in winter...IA or  
> north, even its nice in MO, GET A BLOCK HEATER AND FORGET ABOUT ALL THE  
> OTHER GIZMOS - UNLESS it';s REALLY REALLY cold where you live, you  don't 
> need in-line fuel heaters, in-line coolant heaters and a block  heater. 
> That's for North Dakota and Alaska...maybe Minnesota,  IMH&RUO (IR=relatively 
> & U=uninformed).
>   
>   Chris
>
> Zoltan Finks  wrote:  Congrats on Wulf.
>
> This fuel heater. Sheesh another thing to think about. I would love to
> install a block heater before too long, but a fuel heater I had not given
> much thought to. Warm diesel fuel combusts better I'm assuming? Resulting in
> easier starts? Isn't it true that gasoline combusts better or more
> efficiently if cooler?
>
> Does it run on a timer? Or just when the key is turned? Runs off battery
> power I assume, as opposed to AC?
>
> Brian
> 83 240D
>
> On 3/9/06, Christopher McCann  wrote:
>   
>> $105....some labor, some washers, a BOLT, and some bushings (on the  brake
>> torsion bar). Not a creek, clank, clunk, click, or squeal. After  replacing
>> all the ball joints and now finally securing the brake  torsion bar, she
>> sounds JUST LIKE NEW on every bump, ramp and dip. A  beautiful thing.
>>
>> Indy gave me a free Stanadyne in-line diesel fuel heater (it's new
>> in  box, but old, he has a TON of them: auto temp sensing, heats fuel
>> prior  to engine start). Haven't looked at the instructions - obviously
>> goes  BEFORE fuel filter. I live in MO, not MN...but I guess it can't
>> hurt.  Any thoughts?
>>
>> I figured if there was any interest on the list and since he has
>> "TONS"  of them, maybe we can buy a qty in builk for dirt cheap? That's
>> if  they're worth the trouble.
>>
>> Thanks all,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
>> -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
>> -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, "Nanook"
>> -1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
>> -1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf"
>> -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
>> -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
>> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
>>
>> ---------------------------------
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>
> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
> -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
> -1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, "Nanook"
> -1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
> -1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf" 
> -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
> -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
>   
> ---------------------------------
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> _______________________________________
> http://www.striplin.net
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
>
>   


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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1992 Volkswagen Golf, diesel, 185K km, "Nanook"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 212K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
                
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> With all due respect, a cheap BMW is much more expensive. ;)

I can second that!
Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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