Well probably something I will have to tackle at some point soon.  BTW, my c3 is still not right.  I was able to get into the transmission module on that car but it would not read the engine module.  I still have a check engine light that I have no idea what it is and cant clear it.

On 5/11/2018 3:16 PM, Dave M. wrote:
Kaleb, you gotta drop the valve body to remove / inspect the solenoid. I don't know much beyond this however. Might not be anything possible besides replacing that solenoid with a new one, and I have no idea if it's worth the attempt. I guess you could swap that solenoid with a different one and see if the problem shift changes too, but that's a lotta work...

=)

On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 2:12 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net <mailto:ka...@striplin.net>> wrote:

    Well that is the one I get the flare on. Guess I need to check the
    solenoid valve. What all is required with that?

    Sent from my iPhone

    On May 11, 2018, at 2:31 PM, Dave M. <amgd...@gmail.com
    <mailto:amgd...@gmail.com>> wrote:

    Kaleb, overall the adaptation values look decent, with the
    exception of the 3-4 upshift. 180Nm is the maximum allowed for
    6-cyl engines, which means your adaptation is pegged at the limit
    for that one particular upshift. The FSM says "Check / replace
    solenoid valve, clean valve body", but if that doesn't help,
    there might be a worn-out band or clutch inside. It then says the
    next step is to take apart the transmission for inspection, check
    clearances, yadda x3.

    As Jono said, using Type F (and, re-setting / re-adapting)
    miiiiight help, assuming you don't want to rebuild the thing on
    your workbench.

    See attached PDF. I'll upload this to my site in the Docs /
    Transmission section as well.

    =)

    On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 1:07 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin
    <ka...@striplin.net <mailto:ka...@striplin.net>> wrote:

        I did the adaptation per Dave’s method and overall as far as
        I can tell the shift quality is better but I still have the
        flare between 3-4. I did not notice the flare between 2-3. We
        shall see when I drive it more extensively next week.

        Sent from my iPhone

        On May 11, 2018, at 1:20 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin
        <ka...@striplin.net <mailto:ka...@striplin.net>> wrote:

        Ok for some reason the c3 worked fine on the ML so I thought
        I would try the 98. It connected and here is the codes I am
        getting for trans along with the adaption screen shots. I
        have idea if they are good or bad.

        <image1.jpeg>

        image2.jpeg

        image3.jpeg

        image4.jpeg

        <image5.jpeg>

        <image6.jpeg>

        image7.jpeg

        <image8.jpeg>

        image9.jpeg

        image10.jpeg
        Sent from my iPhone

        On May 11, 2018, at 8:36 AM, Dave M. <amgd...@gmail.com
        <mailto:amgd...@gmail.com>> wrote:

        When you get the C3 plugged in, take screen shots / photos
        of all the screens and send 'em to us. I have the factory
        docs which show how to interpret the results, and some
        screen shots of my trans, but seems neither are on my
        website (ooops). There are 9 separate screens, see attached
        photos for 2 of them from one of my .6's. I'll scan and
        upload the secret decoder ring.

        Forgot about the Sonnax spring kits which help fix specific
        problems on the 722.6 although I don't think this applies
        in your case:
        
http://124performance.com/docs/mb/transmission/722.6/trans_722.6_Sonnax.pdf
        
<http://124performance.com/docs/mb/transmission/722.6/trans_722.6_Sonnax.pdf>



        On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 7:11 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin
        <ka...@striplin.net <mailto:ka...@striplin.net>> wrote:

            So when I finally am able to get my sds hooked up, what
            numbers am I looking for and what numbers would look bad?

            Sent from my iPhone

            On May 11, 2018, at 8:09 AM, Dave M. <amgd...@gmail.com
            <mailto:amgd...@gmail.com>> wrote:

            Kaleb, after resetting adaptation, you need, to
            perform the procedure I described to get proper
            adaptation. You can drive the car normally but IME,
            this doesn't result in optimum adaptation with a
            higher-mileage trans. Also, I don't trust
            driver-control resets... I'd prefer to see the numbers
            in the SDS all return to zero. It's a shame you
            already did the reset without SDS, I really was
            curious what the numbers looked like. If the trans is
            actually bad the numbers should look lousy again when
            you get your new C3.

            About Unkie Kent's videos, change the YouTube setting
            to play at 2x speed. It is a HUGE help. I wish there
            was a 3x speed.

            Jono, do you use Type F in the .6 box too? I didn't
            know that! Thought you only used it in the 4-speeds.

            =)

            On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 7:05 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin
            <ka...@striplin.net <mailto:ka...@striplin.net>> wrote:

                I just changed the fluid a month or 2 ago and the
                pan was clean.  I did the rest yesterday as far as
                turning the key on and pressing the pedal to the
                floor for 30 seconds or whatever it is.  Did not
                seem to help.


                On 5/10/2018 8:03 PM, Sixto Orosa wrote:
                You don’t need SDS to reset adaptations -
                
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/reset-mercedes-benz-transmission-procedure-instructions/
                
<http://www.mercedesmedic.com/reset-mercedes-benz-transmission-procedure-instructions/>
 -
                but what you describe sounds more serious.

                Maybe you want to note the current setting first
                in which case you need SDS. I wouldn’t know what
                to do with that information.

                Is it worth dropping the pan to check for
                shavings? IIRC some pre ‘00 transmissions have a
                bushing that can bind vs the later needle
                bearing. Bushing wear usually means nasty
                grinding sounds though, worse than the smooth
                whine that precedes limp mode or loss of gear
                engagement when there’s fluid in the TCM.

                Sixto



                On May 10, 2018, at 5:33 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin
                <ka...@striplin.net <mailto:ka...@striplin.net>>
                wrote:

                I have done conductor plates before so I am not
                too worried about that.  I guess I should plan
                on swapping it out.


                On 5/10/2018 7:32 PM, Joe Knight wrote:
                Yeah, I've had no tranny issues.  I'd suspect
                conductor plate.  My one engine issue so far
                was a misfire of #1 injector.  New engine
                wiring harness seems to have resolved that. But
                that's not what you're describing so no help
                I'm afraid.  If you decide to attack the
                conductor plate uncle Kent's vid is way too
                long winded and convoluted but it does show
                what's involved.

                On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 5:16 PM, Dave M.
                <amgd...@gmail.com <mailto:amgd...@gmail.com>>
                wrote:

                    Kaleb, how old is the conductor plate? 250k
                    is well past the expected lifespan.

                    Next thing is to reset adaptation, but
                    first get the trans fully hot (80C on the
                    SDS), then reset, then do the manual
                    adaptation. On the 722.6 it should be
                    driving on a flat road at very light
                    throttle, so it upshifts below 1800rpm
                    until 5th gear. Repeat a dozen times or
                    more, then drive the car however you want
                    for 15+ minutes. See if any of that helps.

                    You could also check the adaptation data
                    and see if any of the numbers are maxed
                    out, or if the fill times are way out of
                    whack. Might want to do that before
                    resetting so you can compare to afterwards.

                    Dunno about the power loss, sounds engine
                    related, not tranny. No fault codes?

                    On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 5:37 PM, Kaleb C.
                    Striplin <ka...@striplin.net
                    <mailto:ka...@striplin.net>> wrote:

                        I am starting to have problems with the
                        722.6 in my 98 e300.  Car has 250K on
                        it now.  A while back it was starting
                        to flair a little sometimes between 2-3
                        or 3-4, can't remember which.  I did a
                        fluid change and did the spring upgrade
                        as well as changed the plug connector
                        which was leaking.  When I pulled the
                        pan it was clean with no metal or any
                        sort of clutch material in the pan.
                        Afterwards that seemed to have fixed
                        the occasional flaring, for about a
                        week or 2.  It has slowly been coming
                        back. It first just did it the first
                        shift or 2 of the day. Now it does it
                        more often than not and also flares
                        between 3-4 also.  It will either bang
                        into gear or flare on the 2-3 and 3-4
                        shifts.  It also had been on occasion
                        going into limp mode where it would
                        stay in 3rd and not upshift until you
                        shut it off then would be fine after
                        you restarted it.  That problem has
                        been getting worse to the point that it
                        did it twice today. Yesterday I pulled
                        the transmission controller to see if
                        there was fluid in it.  The connector
                        was a little damp from tranny fluid and
                        I pulled the control board out of the
                        box and there was a little fluid
                        residue in it but it was not pouring
                        out like some pics I have seen online. 
                        So WTF is wrong with this thing?  Could
                        it be a pending conductor plate
                        failure?  Or more serious problems. 
                        One other thing. First first few
                        minutes of the day after it shifts out
                        of first, the car hesitates and does
                        not have any power, then all the sudden
                        it will kick in, sort of like the
                        computer is withholding throttle
                        response for some reason if that makes
                        sense.


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        Boise, ID
        1997 E420 - 155kmi (Bugeyes)
        1994 E420 - 144kmi (Blondie)
        1993 500E - 193kmi (Lollipop)
        1992 400E - 189kmi (Stinky Dirty)
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    Boise, ID
    1997 E420 - 155kmi (Bugeyes)
    1994 E420 - 144kmi (Blondie)
    1993 500E - 193kmi (Lollipop)
    1992 400E - 189kmi (Stinky Dirty)
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1997 E420 - 155kmi (Bugeyes)
1994 E420 - 144kmi (Blondie)
1993 500E - 193kmi (Lollipop)
1992 400E - 189kmi (Stinky Dirty)


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