Well probably something I will have to tackle at some point soon. BTW,
my c3 is still not right. I was able to get into the transmission
module on that car but it would not read the engine module. I still
have a check engine light that I have no idea what it is and cant clear it.
On 5/11/2018 3:16 PM, Dave M. wrote:
Kaleb, you gotta drop the valve body to remove / inspect the solenoid.
I don't know much beyond this however. Might not be anything possible
besides replacing that solenoid with a new one, and I have no idea if
it's worth the attempt. I guess you could swap that solenoid with a
different one and see if the problem shift changes too, but that's a
lotta work...
=)
On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 2:12 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net
<mailto:ka...@striplin.net>> wrote:
Well that is the one I get the flare on. Guess I need to check the
solenoid valve. What all is required with that?
Sent from my iPhone
On May 11, 2018, at 2:31 PM, Dave M. <amgd...@gmail.com
<mailto:amgd...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Kaleb, overall the adaptation values look decent, with the
exception of the 3-4 upshift. 180Nm is the maximum allowed for
6-cyl engines, which means your adaptation is pegged at the limit
for that one particular upshift. The FSM says "Check / replace
solenoid valve, clean valve body", but if that doesn't help,
there might be a worn-out band or clutch inside. It then says the
next step is to take apart the transmission for inspection, check
clearances, yadda x3.
As Jono said, using Type F (and, re-setting / re-adapting)
miiiiight help, assuming you don't want to rebuild the thing on
your workbench.
See attached PDF. I'll upload this to my site in the Docs /
Transmission section as well.
=)
On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 1:07 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin
<ka...@striplin.net <mailto:ka...@striplin.net>> wrote:
I did the adaptation per Dave’s method and overall as far as
I can tell the shift quality is better but I still have the
flare between 3-4. I did not notice the flare between 2-3. We
shall see when I drive it more extensively next week.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 11, 2018, at 1:20 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin
<ka...@striplin.net <mailto:ka...@striplin.net>> wrote:
Ok for some reason the c3 worked fine on the ML so I thought
I would try the 98. It connected and here is the codes I am
getting for trans along with the adaption screen shots. I
have idea if they are good or bad.
<image1.jpeg>
image2.jpeg
image3.jpeg
image4.jpeg
<image5.jpeg>
<image6.jpeg>
image7.jpeg
<image8.jpeg>
image9.jpeg
image10.jpeg
Sent from my iPhone
On May 11, 2018, at 8:36 AM, Dave M. <amgd...@gmail.com
<mailto:amgd...@gmail.com>> wrote:
When you get the C3 plugged in, take screen shots / photos
of all the screens and send 'em to us. I have the factory
docs which show how to interpret the results, and some
screen shots of my trans, but seems neither are on my
website (ooops). There are 9 separate screens, see attached
photos for 2 of them from one of my .6's. I'll scan and
upload the secret decoder ring.
Forgot about the Sonnax spring kits which help fix specific
problems on the 722.6 although I don't think this applies
in your case:
http://124performance.com/docs/mb/transmission/722.6/trans_722.6_Sonnax.pdf
<http://124performance.com/docs/mb/transmission/722.6/trans_722.6_Sonnax.pdf>
On Fri, May 11, 2018 at 7:11 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin
<ka...@striplin.net <mailto:ka...@striplin.net>> wrote:
So when I finally am able to get my sds hooked up, what
numbers am I looking for and what numbers would look bad?
Sent from my iPhone
On May 11, 2018, at 8:09 AM, Dave M. <amgd...@gmail.com
<mailto:amgd...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Kaleb, after resetting adaptation, you need, to
perform the procedure I described to get proper
adaptation. You can drive the car normally but IME,
this doesn't result in optimum adaptation with a
higher-mileage trans. Also, I don't trust
driver-control resets... I'd prefer to see the numbers
in the SDS all return to zero. It's a shame you
already did the reset without SDS, I really was
curious what the numbers looked like. If the trans is
actually bad the numbers should look lousy again when
you get your new C3.
About Unkie Kent's videos, change the YouTube setting
to play at 2x speed. It is a HUGE help. I wish there
was a 3x speed.
Jono, do you use Type F in the .6 box too? I didn't
know that! Thought you only used it in the 4-speeds.
=)
On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 7:05 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin
<ka...@striplin.net <mailto:ka...@striplin.net>> wrote:
I just changed the fluid a month or 2 ago and the
pan was clean. I did the rest yesterday as far as
turning the key on and pressing the pedal to the
floor for 30 seconds or whatever it is. Did not
seem to help.
On 5/10/2018 8:03 PM, Sixto Orosa wrote:
You don’t need SDS to reset adaptations -
http://www.mercedesmedic.com/reset-mercedes-benz-transmission-procedure-instructions/
<http://www.mercedesmedic.com/reset-mercedes-benz-transmission-procedure-instructions/>
-
but what you describe sounds more serious.
Maybe you want to note the current setting first
in which case you need SDS. I wouldn’t know what
to do with that information.
Is it worth dropping the pan to check for
shavings? IIRC some pre ‘00 transmissions have a
bushing that can bind vs the later needle
bearing. Bushing wear usually means nasty
grinding sounds though, worse than the smooth
whine that precedes limp mode or loss of gear
engagement when there’s fluid in the TCM.
Sixto
On May 10, 2018, at 5:33 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin
<ka...@striplin.net <mailto:ka...@striplin.net>>
wrote:
I have done conductor plates before so I am not
too worried about that. I guess I should plan
on swapping it out.
On 5/10/2018 7:32 PM, Joe Knight wrote:
Yeah, I've had no tranny issues. I'd suspect
conductor plate. My one engine issue so far
was a misfire of #1 injector. New engine
wiring harness seems to have resolved that. But
that's not what you're describing so no help
I'm afraid. If you decide to attack the
conductor plate uncle Kent's vid is way too
long winded and convoluted but it does show
what's involved.
On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 5:16 PM, Dave M.
<amgd...@gmail.com <mailto:amgd...@gmail.com>>
wrote:
Kaleb, how old is the conductor plate? 250k
is well past the expected lifespan.
Next thing is to reset adaptation, but
first get the trans fully hot (80C on the
SDS), then reset, then do the manual
adaptation. On the 722.6 it should be
driving on a flat road at very light
throttle, so it upshifts below 1800rpm
until 5th gear. Repeat a dozen times or
more, then drive the car however you want
for 15+ minutes. See if any of that helps.
You could also check the adaptation data
and see if any of the numbers are maxed
out, or if the fill times are way out of
whack. Might want to do that before
resetting so you can compare to afterwards.
Dunno about the power loss, sounds engine
related, not tranny. No fault codes?
On Thu, May 10, 2018 at 5:37 PM, Kaleb C.
Striplin <ka...@striplin.net
<mailto:ka...@striplin.net>> wrote:
I am starting to have problems with the
722.6 in my 98 e300. Car has 250K on
it now. A while back it was starting
to flair a little sometimes between 2-3
or 3-4, can't remember which. I did a
fluid change and did the spring upgrade
as well as changed the plug connector
which was leaking. When I pulled the
pan it was clean with no metal or any
sort of clutch material in the pan.
Afterwards that seemed to have fixed
the occasional flaring, for about a
week or 2. It has slowly been coming
back. It first just did it the first
shift or 2 of the day. Now it does it
more often than not and also flares
between 3-4 also. It will either bang
into gear or flare on the 2-3 and 3-4
shifts. It also had been on occasion
going into limp mode where it would
stay in 3rd and not upshift until you
shut it off then would be fine after
you restarted it. That problem has
been getting worse to the point that it
did it twice today. Yesterday I pulled
the transmission controller to see if
there was fluid in it. The connector
was a little damp from tranny fluid and
I pulled the control board out of the
box and there was a little fluid
residue in it but it was not pouring
out like some pics I have seen online.
So WTF is wrong with this thing? Could
it be a pending conductor plate
failure? Or more serious problems.
One other thing. First first few
minutes of the day after it shifts out
of first, the car hesitates and does
not have any power, then all the sudden
it will kick in, sort of like the
computer is withholding throttle
response for some reason if that makes
sense.
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