I suspect a brake proportioning valve turns the dash light on when the brake 
pressures are out of balance.

http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/PVK.pdf


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
> Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2019 10:36 PM
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Chebby brakes
> 
> Must be the back since they are not properly adjusted yet.
> 
> What I am trying to figure out is what the deal is the brake warning light in 
> the
> cluster.  It comes on when the parking brake is set.  Also, when I was pushing
> the pedal the other day it was off, but would come on as the pedal got close 
> to
> the floor.  Today it seems to stay on all the time.  As far as I can tell, 
> there is no
> electrical connection at the MC.  Supposedly the light indicates if the 
> parking
> brake is on or if there is a braking issue.  I wonder if there is some switch
> somewhere in the system that if the pedal goes too far to the floor it turns 
> the
> light on.  I can't seem to find much info on exactly what is tied into that 
> light.
> 
> On 5/24/2019 9:27 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:
> > Remember that the MC has two sections (front and back brakes).  Sounds
> like one of them isn't working.
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
> >> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
> >> Sent: Friday, May 24, 2019 4:42 PM
> >> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >> Cc: Kaleb Striplin <ka...@striplin.net>
> >> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Chebby brakes
> >>
> >> The braking effort seems fine. This has the hydro boost brakes rather
> >> than the vacuum booster. I’m still suspecting the MC is weak. It’s
> >> not expensive or hard to replace so I will probably replace it.
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On May 24, 2019, at 3:06 PM, G Mann via Mercedes
> >> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>> I'm glad you mentioned that leading wheel cylinder issue.
> >>> Which leads me to this:
> >>> If the brake fluid is rank, which it was, and the wheel cylinder is
> >>> leaking, it's likely the master cylinder rubber cups are also
> >>> leaking, just a bit. When master cylinder leaks on Chebbys with
> >>> brake vacuum booster behind it, the brake fluid eats the diaphragm
> >>> in the vac brake booster, which means, you do not get "full brake
> >>> assist" from the brake
> >> booster.
> >>> Eventually, the leak will get so bad you can hear vacuum leak
> >>> sucking when you press the brakes, which are not doing their job.
> >>>
> >>> Could you have a failed or failing vac brake booster?  If you do,
> >>> ALWAYS replace booster and master cylinder as a pair.
> >>> It's a Chebby falt point. might just be why brakes have been crap
> >>> and still are.
> >>>
> >>> On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 12:55 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> >>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> The rear wheel cylinders were leaking and contaminated the shoes so
> >>>> that is why o replaced all that. I’m going to adjust the shoes
> >>>> either today or tomorrow then see what happens. It’s either that or
> >>>> I somehow still have air on the lines, which I can’t see how. Or
> >>>> air on master cylinder or it’s bad,  it if it was bad I would think
> >>>> it would start
> >> sinking to the floor.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>
> >>>>> On May 24, 2019, at 2:41 PM, G Mann via Mercedes
> >>>>> <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>> In the interest of time and effort, try adjusting them, wheels on.
> >>>>> If
> >>>> they
> >>>>> don't adjust out enough to lock up the wheel, then it's time to
> >>>>> pull the drums and take them to FLAPS to be measured for ID. Could
> >>>>> be why you
> >>>> never
> >>>>> had good brakes to start with, some dip wit did a brake job and
> >>>>> took the drums beyond limit, so even though they "look fresh" they
> >>>>> should, since
> >>>> the
> >>>>> shoes weren't rubbing on them, ha.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> That truck should be able to lock up the wheels when you stomp the
> >>>>> brake, so something is not where it should be.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 12:26 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> >>>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> I will probably pull the wheels back off and adjust the shoes, or
> >>>>>> I
> >>>> guess
> >>>>>> I could do it with the wheels on. I did not measure the drums,
> >>>>>> they
> >>>> still
> >>>>>> looked good with very little wear, at least they did not have a
> >>>>>> ridge at the edge.  I hate drum brakes.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On May 24, 2019, at 2:19 PM, G Mann via Mercedes <
> >>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> >>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>> If you want bad brakes, rely on the automatic adjusters.
> >>>>>>> If you want good full pedal, adjust the shoes till they lock up
> >>>>>>> the
> >>>>>> wheel,
> >>>>>>> then back the adjuster off until you just can feel a very light drag.
> >>>>>> First
> >>>>>>> couple of hard stops will "wear in" the shoes and you will turn
> >>>>>>> free
> >>>> with
> >>>>>>> no drag.
> >>>>>>> OR,
> >>>>>>> Find a clear area and back up, hit the brakes while backing up,
> >>>> multiple
> >>>>>>> times ie pump, pump, pump.. pull forward and do it again and again.
> >>>>>>> The only time automatic adjusters engage is when you are backing
> >>>>>>> up, [clever huh?] My personal preference is to manually adjust
> >>>>>>> them so I can actually
> >>>> feel
> >>>>>>> that I have full contact, then back the adj off a touch.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> You will much improve pedal travel and brake contact.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Question: Did you measure the rear drums when you had them off?
> >>>>>>> It's possible they were turned to the limit at last brake job
> >>>>>>> and are now
> >>>> out
> >>>>>> of
> >>>>>>> limit large, so even new shoes won't fill the space?
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 11:53 AM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
> >>>>>>> < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>> If the master cylinder has air in it, will bleeding at the
> >>>>>>>> wheels
> >>>> remove
> >>>>>>>> that air, or does it need to be bled in a separate procedure?
> >>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>> On 5/24/2019 1:21 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> >>>>>>>>> Yea I guess I could try that.  I had planned on just letting
> >>>>>>>>> them adjust out on their own.
> >>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> On 5/24/2019 1:18 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>> So have you adjusted out the rear brake drums?  If not, that
> >>>>>>>>>> would
> >>>> be
> >>>>>> my
> >>>>>>>>>> next move.
> >>>>>>>>>> -------------
> >>>>>>>>>> Max
> >>>>>>>>>> Charleston SC
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>> On Fri, May 24, 2019 at 2:15 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via
> >>>>>>>>>> Mercedes < mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>> Ok, I a bled the crap out of it.  I did the bleeder at the
> >>>>>>>>>>> abs
> >>>> unit,
> >>>>>>>>>>> then did all the wheels again started and RR, the LR, RF, LF.
> >>>>>>>>>>> I ran about 3qts of fluid thru it.  At all wheels I have
> >>>>>>>>>>> clean fluid and
> >>>> no
> >>>>>>>>>>> bubbles coming out.  Took it out and it still has very
> >>>>>>>>>>> little
> >>>>>> braking.
> >>>>>>>>>>> Pedal goes probably 3/4 of the way to the floor till any
> >>>>>>>>>>> sort of braking action happens.  It will stop, but not very
> >>>>>>>>>>> fast and would not stop pulling a trailer.  Even if the back
> >>>>>>>>>>> brakes were not fully adjusted
> >>>>>> out
> >>>>>>>>>>> yet it would be better than this.  When I pump the pedal it
> >>>>>>>>>>> does
> >>>>>> return
> >>>>>>>>>>> but its not an instant return as soon as you left off the pedal.
> >>>>>> Also,
> >>>>>>>>>>> when just holding steady pressure at about the half pedal
> >>>>>>>>>>> travel or oven
> >>>>>>>>>>> 3/4 travel pedal does not sink it seems to stay steady.
> >>>>>>>>>>> Also, the
> >>>>>> red
> >>>>>>>>>>> brake lite is on that would come on if the parking brake is
> >>>>>>>>>>> on, the manual says this indicates a brake problem.  No joke.
> >>>>>>>>>>> I really do
> >>>>>> not
> >>>>>>>>>>> see how I could still have air in the lines.  Brakes are
> >>>>>>>>>>> worse than they were before I replaced the rear wheel
> >>>>>>>>>>> cylinders but they were never very good in the first place.
> >>>>>>>>>>> The front calipers and hoses are fairly new also.
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
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