When removing the motor mount I am not clear on just what to take out. Should I remove the 4 bolts on the mount and engine and totally remove the engine mount? I have the oil lines off I just need to know what and how to remove on the mount to get the oil lines out of the car. Thanks Bruce
-----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of carbucks Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 11:43 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD oil cooler line Thanks to all who replied. Came across this posting in alt.auto.mercedes that confirms you have to raise the engine. Martin From: Russ Maki "Russ Maki" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Thurs, Jun 29 2000 12:00 am Groups: alt.auto.mercedes On my '82 300cd, the lower line has to come out first to get at the upper line. Maybe that's different on the S cars of the era. This procedure works for removing both lines on my car (you might as well do both). I assume it works for other cars with the 5-cyl turbo diesel engine: 1) Detach the hoses at the filter and oil cooler. Removing the fan and shroud may help you get at the fitting at the oil cooler end of the lower hose. Make sure you remove the clamps holding the lines in place at the AC compressor and in front of the engine mount. A 10-inch Crescent wrench works nicely on the line fittings. 2) Jack up the left side of the car so the LF wheel is 2-3 inches off the ground. Use a jack stand under the left frame rail to secure the car in its raised position. 3) Detach the driver's-side and engine shock absorber. You'll need to crawl under the car to remove the engine-to-mount bolt and lower nut on the engine shock. There's a flat area on the lower shaft of the shock where you can use a 7mm open-end wrench to keep the shaft from spinning while you're turning the nut. 4) Put a jack under the left side of the engine and lift it 3 inches. If you use a block of 2x4 and take care, you should be able to jack it up under a corner of the oil pan. 5) Remove the old lines by sliding them down and out at the back of the engine bay. You'll need to rotate them a little, but they do come out without a lot of difficulty. 6) Installation is the reverse of removal. Take care not to cross-thread the fittings at the oil cooler -- you don't want to strip the threads on the cooler. I also used a little pipe sealer on the joints to prevent leaks. Whew! Not a fun job. While you have things unbuttoned, it may be time to replace the engine mount and engine shock . Not to mention the water pump and fan clutch. HTH, Russ Jeff Zedic wrote: > It makes it easier, yes > > >_______________________________________ >http://www.striplin.net >For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > Jeff Zedic wrote: > It makes it easier, yes > > >_______________________________________ >http://www.striplin.net >For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > > > _______________________________________ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.2.6/287 - Release Date: 3/21/2006
