I just put a rebuilt 500e subframe into the 87 wagon. Everything OE except
the toe links, which are nla. New half shafts from cvj reman are over $400 plus
shipping. Parts for the links and new control arms are way over 600. New
fasteners, axle nuts, subframe mounts, lower ball joints for the carrier,
plus a $120 tool to press them in and out, a subframe mount tool, and a
diff mount bushing removal set. New socket for axle nuts. New female torx
socket set for the diff flange bolts. New diff mount bolts and lock nuts.
New sportline springs and spring pads are hundreds of dollars. Swaybar
links. The original sls shocks were done - bad ball joints at the bottom
and leaking; they were about 1300 for the parts alone. I had previously put
rebuilt aluminum brembo 500e front and 300mm 600sl rear vented calipers,
rotors, brake lines and r4 pads on, which was must have been $1000 in the
end without labor, including new master cyl, brake fluid, brake bleeder,
dual diaphragm booster, etc. No more than the rebuilt OE stuff, actually,
in terms of price.
I even got OE diff mounts from overseas as they are backordered for the v8
cars. Rear wheel bearings had already been done thankfully, so I didnt have
to buy that tool or tackle the job, but I would have if they had not been
done. Necessary? For peace of mind, yes. What is that worth?

OE door seals for the car are over a grand alone.

Multifunction stalk switch. Ignition tumbler. Over 100 each oe, excluding
labor.

New headlights (old plastic housing tabs had broken off), magnetti marelli,
euro style, 450.  No labor included.

New dash was $250 and a lot of labor, with all the hvac pods at hundreds of
dollars, new climate control unit, evap, compressor, dryer, hoses.

Swapped a black leather interior in; 800 for the donor 95 wagon. Imagine
paying that labor in DC or any other major city.

You can argue that none of it needed to be done, but when the subframe
starts banging on the underside of the car taking off from stoplights, and
the ball joints on the shocks are creaking, it is time. And after pulling
the subframe out, there is no way I am putting it back with any old stuff
on it. I am not driving a car with a cracked dash, creaky suspension or a
subframe that provides automatic 4 wheel steering. The ignition tumbler has
to work well, the brakes have to be brakey, and it should steer like new.

This doesnt include the 500sl junkyard diff and side bearings and seals,
plus labor. I swapped a wavetrac lsd carrier in, which was over a grand for
the part. I was quoted 2700 for that job alone from Leistung. That's why it
happened on my bench. My old diff was spewing metal fragments into the
fluid and had far too much play. It was also 185mm rather than 210.

Anyway for the 123 mentioned, the axle shafts, rebuilt steering box, and
nla sls struts weren't mentioned. And the tranny sounded kind of hinky.

I am at a point where I sort of want things maintained like a certified
aircraft. I am not driving them and waiting for something to fail. If you
want new car type performance, a lot of stuff has to be made new. For the
daily drivers, I pay someone to do it. For the hobby cars I tackle it as
time allows.



On Wed, Oct 30, 2019, 6:21 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Having done the 124 300D rear subframe piecemeal, several times, I have
> to agree with Jaime.  I did the rear of the 81 240D all at once.  That
> is a FAR superior way to do it.   In the end, the last 2 times I did the
> rear of 124s, I did it all at once.   I won't do piecemeal anymore,
> unless it is a short term emergency.
>
> Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote on 10/30/19 3:13 PM:
> > Sure.  If I had won the auction I would probably drive it and repair
> issues
> > on a piecemeal basis, as symptoms are observed.
> >
> >
>
>
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