The test lamp as shown is excellent on older gear, but the computer-controlled stuff is trickier. Also, even a 20mA parasitic draw is enough to cause problems, but not really enough to make light. My favorite technique remains to loosen the ground clamp, stab the center of the post with one ammeter probe, and then pinch the other probe against the clamp while lifting the clamp up over the probe. Briefly, just long enough to take a reading, then push the clamp back onto the post. Repeat as required.
That way power is never interrupted, and so no surge exists to damage the ammeter's fuse or throw off the readings. (My Fluke's fuse is something like $10. Each.) And, the surge-ing electronics never has a voltage drop during its startup, which could confuse it and cause spurious problems. Or even, more permanent problems. If you have one of those inline battery knife switches, you can put it in place and wire up the ammeter more solidly. Then just open the switch to take a reading, then close the switch. Easy, quick, safe, and reliable. That's what we did back in school. -- Jim _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
