I got home with the 8ft section of hose and I just decided to leave it
as is rather than cutting it shorter. I filled the tube with fluid from
the HF oil can squirter then attached it to the bleeder and began
pumping. I ended up developing some air pockets in the house so I
removed it from the bleeder again and got them out. I determined the
issue the whole time might have been I did not have the bleeder loose
enough. I loosened it some more and continued pumping. After a while I
noticed a small amount of movement in the brake reservoir. Then the
level started to slowly rise. I closed the bleeder screw then went
under the dash to pull the linkage rod out to install the one originally
on the car. The one that came with the MC was much shorter than the MB
one that came off the car so I stuck the one that came with the MC back
in. I had a hell of a time compressing it to get it back to the bolt
hole. Finally got it, screwed it back down and now the clutch works! I
am not sure if it was a matter of leaving the rod disconnected from the
clutch pedal, opening the bleed screw more, or using the oil can instead
of the hose connected to brake caliper. At the end of the day I think I
prefer the oil can method because using the caliper has the potential to
pump dirty brake fluid up into the brand new clutch hydraulics (although
in this case the fluid looks clean like it was recently flushed.
On 7/5/2020 3:07 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
I just bought 8 ft of clear tubing. Will run it out from under the car to where
I can watch the reservoir then cut the length I need. I will then pump the line
full of fluid before hooking it up to the bleeder on slave cylinder. Then start
pumping.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 5, 2020, at 2:52 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:
I didn't say it would always work. ;)
-Curt
On Sunday, July 5, 2020, 2:37:17 AM EDT, fmiser <fmi...@gmail.com> wrote:
Curt wrote:
Have you checked to see if the line from the master to the slave
is clear? Maybe that was the problem all along. My suggestion is
to use the rod from the car, not the replacement master.
Can't always do that. I've seen at least three different
rod-to-cylinder interfaces. Not all were interchangeable.
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