My next concern would be cleaning up the shavings after tapping and
installing the helicoil. I have first hand experience with this from
helicoiling a head hold down stud in a VW case once - despite out best
efforts at containing and then removing the chips, the engine seized in
about a mile or two. Tear-down revealed lots of aluminum shavings in the
crank bearings.
I read a tip on an airplane forum the other day where he
recommended filling the area with shaving cream before drilling, tapping,
and breaking off the tang of the helicoil, then vacuuming it out
afterwards. He claimed that you get all the chips out and that the shaving
cream (soap) doesn't hurt anything. I've never tried this, YMMV.

It's a metric thread, use a pair of calipers and measure the diameter ---
If you don't have a pair of calipers, I can recommend this set (the HF ones
died early and were not repeatable)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AQEZ2W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I like them so much that I bought two, one for each side of the hangar so
I'm running back and forth all the time looking for them.

On Sun, Oct 25, 2020 at 4:04 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Any idea what size helicoil it would be?
>
> On 10/25/2020 4:01 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> > Time for a Helicoil thread repair kit.
> > That mounting is a high stress area, with a repeated high failure rate..
> It
> > needs full thread contact and regular inspection of the bolt for working
> > loose.
> >
> > Spend the money and time to repair the thread, It should last for a good
> > while... Don't repair it, just kluge it with JB or something, and when it
> > lets go and the pulley/ belt/ fan eats whatever is handy at highway
> > speed... you get to buy lots of new parts and labor...
> >
> > Your call... Helicoil repair kit would be mine..
> >
> > On Sun, Oct 25, 2020 at 1:52 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> > mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Working on my fathers 98 e300 doing routine maintenance. Noticed the
> belt
> >> tensioner was cockeyed. Typical. On this car the tensioner was loose
> with
> >> the PO and he I believe used some lock tight and tightened it back down.
> >> The threads were somewhat stripped out. I was aware at some point it
> could
> >> become an issue. When I removed the bolt it was tight, not loose so I’m
> >> sure the tensioner is just worn out. When I go to replace it I don’t
> think
> >> I’m going to be able to crank down on it like normal.  It appears the
> first
> >> half of the threads are stripped so it’s just grabbing with the back
> half.
> >> Think I should clean it up real good and used either red or blue
> locktite?
> >> What about JB welding it? What about running a tap down the hole to
> clean
> >> it up? Anybody know what size it would be or if that would even work?
> See
> >> photos and video below.
> >>
> >> https://youtu.be/cWiG0ihny0M
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >> _______________________________________
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
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> >>
> >>
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> >
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>
> _______________________________________
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>

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

“Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”  Wernher
Von Braun
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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