I don't seem able to find decent ball valves anymore. I find that after
a while, if they are opened and closed, they leak slightly. I have gone
back to using the old style valves with the rubber (plastic?) sealing
washer that can be replaced.
Randy
On 12/10/2021 2:51 PM, dan penoff.com via Mercedes wrote:
Any time I replace a water heater, a set of copper fittings along with a ball
valve replace the cheap plastic drain valve the manufacturer supplied.
It gets flushed annually (or more) and by using a full flow ball valve a lot of
the cruft gets flushed out easily - and quickly!
-D
On Oct 12, 2021, at 12:23 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:
On Tue, Oct 12, 2021, at 1:38 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:
Also, if someone "tests" the P-T safety valve by manually "burping" it, there
is a chance of suspended solids getting stuck on the valve's sealing surfaces (causing a dripping
leak).
Yep, BTDT. I only suggested it as it's already leaking, so not really anything
to lose.
Same goes for the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. I've seen advice to
open that every month or so to flush out any sediment but often you won't be
able to fully close it again. They are typically very cheap plastic valves, so
if you plan to do that, best to replace the valve with a good one before you
fill the water heater.
Allan
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