I am assuming this is the GM style compressor. The clutch is truly just
an electromagnet. There should be a two-wire connector to the clutch.
One should be 12 volts with the ignition switch in ON position; the
other leads to ground through the switching system.

Pull the two-wire connector off the clutch and check to see if you have
12 volts to it with the ignition switch in the ON position. Check the
other lead to see if it goes to ground.

If the leads check out, test the clutch. Connect a jumper wire from the
battery to the clutch connector that the live lead was on. Connect
another jumper wire to the other connector and touch one end to a good
ground. If the clutch is OK, it will engage. You will hear a CLACK when
it engages.

Tom Potter

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:27 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?

That was the next thing I wanted to verify.  The clutch is simply a 12v
electromagnet, correct?  So I should see 12V coming in on the connector,
and
if I put an external 12v source to the compressor I should notice the
clutch
moving, correct?

Thanks,
Levi

On 6/19/06, Potter, Tom E <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Is power (12 Volts) getting to the clutch?
>
> Tom Potter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Levi Smith
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 1:18 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC Compressor issue?
>
> Sorry, the belt is turning on the compressor.  However, the clutch is
> not
> engaged so the compressor is NOT actually turning.  So it IS normal
for
> the
> low side to be high pressure when th compressor is NOT running.
>
> So the question is where to look for other reasons that the clutch
isn't
> engaging?
>
> Thanks,
> Levi
>
> On 6/19/06, Robert & Tara Ludwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > A bit confusing here, but did the compressor actually start turning
or
> > not?
> > If not, the low side would read high when not running, if low side
is
> > reading high when running, either it's overcharged, or you have a
bum
> > expansion valve /orfice tube depending on the setup.
> >
> > -----------Robert
> >
> > Levi Smith wrote:
> > > OK, so my 83' 300D didn't have any R134 left in it when I tried it
> this
> > > spring.  I put in a few cans and it was working about as well as
> last
> > year
> > > (it provides SOME cooling at highway speeds).  Then it wasn't
> working
> > again
> > > a week or so ago.  I figured it had leaked out again, so I figured
I
> > would
> > > try one more time and see if it still leaked out.
> > >
> > > Well, I put my gauge (cheapy low side only) on and it hissed at me
> and
> > the
> > > gauge read way up into the danger zone (70-90psi maybe?)  but the
> > compressor
> > > clutch wasn't engaging...
> > >
> > > I tried letting some pressure out thinking maybe it was too much
> > pressure,
> > > but it seemed as though basically I could let the pressure to the
> > "normal"
> > > level, and then it would almost immediately build back up to the
> danger
> > > pressure.  I'm assuming perhaps this is just the way it works when
> going
> > > through the expansion valve without the compressor running?  Or is
> this
> > a
> > > sign of some other problem?
> > >
> > > What else should I look for to get the compressor clutch engaging?
> > > How likely is it that the clutch itself is dead?
> > > Should I try applying 12v to the clutch terminals and be able to
see
> it
> > > engage?  (preferably without the engine spinning).
> > > The blower fan is still working, so I'm assuming there's no fuse
> issue
> > > concerning the clutch...
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > > Levi
> > > _______________________________________
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> > >
> > >
> >
> >
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