"Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
OK,still sort of looking around for another truck. Not real new,
probably mid to late 90's, early 2k if good deal. I know about GM,
probably my preference, but am exploring the option of a cummins or or
a powerchoke. Between those, which has the most power, which gets the
best mileage, has the fewest problems. On the cummins, I have heard the
trannies suck, even the 5 speeds. I assume I would want a 5 speed with
a cummins rather than an auto. I also know about the powerchoke
cavitation issues. What the the trannies in those? What about general
body issues? Which hold up better? Any electrical issues on either?
I still prefer GM because they seem to be easier and cheaper to work
on. I have not had any trouble with any of my 6.2's or my 6.5 td.
Best mileage is going to be with a non intercooled 160hp Cummins, 1989-1991 or
so.
They had a higher compression ratio than the later engines. Also had larger
injectors
and a minor tendency to crack the heads near the injector holes. Just buy a 1989
5sp, bump the timing up to 2mm, and expect 25mpg empty with reasonable driving
style.
Getrag 360 five speed in 1989-1993 had a weak fifth gear, just don't go towing
heavy
loads at full throttle in 5th. The "killer dowel pin" can be fixed by pulling
the radiator, drilling a hole in the timing cover over the pin, and threading it
for a bolt to jam up against the pin. KDP failure is probably about as frequent
as
cracked heads in 1987 300ds w/o trap oxidizer.
Most of the autos in the big three pickups can be beefed up to handle very heavy torque,
but stay away from early Dodge 518 four speed. There's an improved retaining
nut kit
for fifth gear in the 1994-up NV4500 tranny, if it falls off, you lose fifth
gear
until you put it back together, not a catastrophic failure.
Powerchoke and Cummins can be modified to whatever torque you want to modify
the driveline
to handle, later Dodge and all Powerstroke Ford can do it with a superchips programmer.
They usually were within 10% for power in most years, Dodge usually had a slight edge
in power and a bigger edge in mpg. A 2000 Dodge can outrun a 1995 Ford, and a
2000
Ford can outrun a 1995 Dodge.
For mileage, get a stick shift, single rear wheel and make sure the axle ratio is 3.xx,
not 4.xx. With Dodge or Ford, cruise at 1600-1800 rpm.
Ford's electrical weakness is the crank position sensor (worthwhile $80 spare, buy it
at the Navistar dealer, it's cheaper there) Just need a few minutes and a 10mm socket.
The other electrical weakness is the throttle position sensor, the foot pedal has a
sensor on it, drive by wire. If the oil anti-foam additive wears out in a Ford,
the
hydraulic/electronic injectors can act up, the cure is an oil change. I've heard
nothing bad about the ZF stick shifts on Ford. Lots of guys install LUK
clutches, but
I don't see anything wrong with the clutch in the 2001 6sp I drive.
I don't really know that much about GM, but for an indirect injection engine,
the
6.5 seems to get pretty good mpg. I don't think any 6.5 can outpull even a 1989
Dodge,
but the 6.6 Duramax is competitive. (but did I mention I dislike aluminum heads
that
don't have the star on them?)
_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
