At the risk of stepping on Marshal's toes, yes. Bad links show up in
three ways -- excessive outer side tire wear (camber control link and
spring link bushing wear), groans on turns from the rear, or squeaks
(thrust links) and excessive suspension noise directly under the rear
seat (torque links). Bad torque links also produce "torque steer" --
pull to one side under acceleration, the other under trailing throttle
due to the wheels "steering".
All will contribute to an unstable feel to the rear end, almost as if
it'd gonna swap ends as you start a turn, but then stabilizes. Again,
the rear wheels are steering when they shouldn't.
Other than the tight working area and some hassle getting the new bolt
and sleeve into the hole in the wheel carrier, changing the links isn't
bad. Just remember to jack the wheel up to normal ride height with the
bolts LOOSE -- the steel sleeve inside the bushing just be free.
Otherwise you have too much "spring" from the rubber, they will wear
out too fast, and it will handle strangely until you free the bushings
up and center the travel -- the rubber acts as part of the spring
force.
You should also examine the mounts for the rear subframe. There are
four, two underneath and two on top of the subframe. When they are
bad, the whole subframe will "steer" on cornering.....
Sagging springs will also cause excessive outer tire wear, too, though,
so check ride height after installing any needed links.
Peter
