What's the deal with these crappy keys? I've had three break in the last three 
years...this last one lasted 7 months. This is stupid. I had one key for all 
the years I had my 220D, one key for the life of my '81 330D, one key for the 
life of my '86 190E (need I go on?). 
I'm going to write to MB and tell them what crap they are sending us. In the 
meantime, I'm going to take the rest of the cheap-ass plastic off and fashion a 
lovely exotic hardwood fob/top like we all once talked about.
For some reason this really ticked me off tonight. 
Back in the day, MB would have made good on these dumb keys. Now-a-days, they 
will probably just do the electronic equivelent of wadding up my letter, 
laughing and tossing the wad in the trash.

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 157K
'87 Acura Legend  177K
Still waiting on '72 350SL  78K
Litchfield Park, AZ
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fri Aug 18 06:43:45 2006
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From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2006 02:10:31 -0400
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Electrical Problem? '91 300D 2.5T
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Thanks for the comments Jim,
    The car started several times today without any indication anything was
wrong  - but that seems to be the way diesels act when there's a
starter/charging problem - all is fine until it's started to lose power.

    As soon as my wife got home with it I put the charge on it so it'll be
charged tomorrow and I'll be able to put my meter on it. I have a tester
that has a "Load" switch and a gauge which tells the condition of the batery
and the charging circuit..

    As far as corrosion, the car seems to have very little - the only I;ve
found in on the metal brake lines in the rear.  The under-trays and in place
and seem to have protected the engine and transmissin areas.  All
connections I've loked at so far have been tight and clean - they even still
have the paint dots applied by MB when assembling it.

    It has a little over 100K miles documented by Carfax  & I cannot find
any evidence of bodywork  - and along with the corrosion on the metalbrake
lines (rear only) some of the bolt heads on the *rear* suspension has minor,
light rust.

    The ground wire is solid as are the end connectors.  Will check the
alternator/charging circuit wiring in the morning but when I changed the
alternator it all looked pretty good - but I wasn't paying much attention.

    One thing I noticed - on the battery there's a tube that appears to
carry gasses from the top of the battery down along the side, ending just
above the hold-down bolt.  It looked to me like there was a lot of gassing
which caused light cossosion on the hold down bolt until I cleaned it with
baking soda.  But it seemed to build up fast - where there was none before.

    How likely is it that the alternator  (a Bosch/Valeo rebuild) I bought
from Rusty could be bad?  It doesn;t make any noise but of the voltage
regulator was bad, it wouldn;t.

Thoughts?

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Electrical Problem? '91 300D 2.5T


>>     A couple  of weeks ago my battery and alternator died.  Installed
>> a new
>> battery and an alternator from Rusty and all was well....
>>     I plan to charge the battery overnight and put my meter on it
>> tomorrow
>> to see what the alt and battery are doing.
>
> Absolutely get that battery on charge as soon as possible, sitting
> discharged is bad for their longevity.  (_Discharging_ them that
> far is bad for them, too.)
>
>> Does it sound like I may have a bad alternator and/or battery -
>
> Given that you replaced both relatively recently I'd be looking
> for something else, such as bad wiring or a bad charge indicator
> light that prevents the alternator from charging.  You need to throw
> a voltmeter on the thing and tell us what it's doing when it's running,
> and when you rev it.  Of course, your new battery could be ruined
> already, but probably is not.  It might not last as long as it
> once would have, however.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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