Not everyone has $$$$$'s like you :) I'm thinking of making an adapter so I can apply regulated air pressure to the radiator and blow the clogged stuff out. Our water here doesn't have very high pressure.....something about being rural and on top of a hill.....
On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:56:32 -0600, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > why do it the hard way? Take the radiator out, and let a radiator shop > clean it and verify good flow. > > I suspect that your t-stat mod might be causing more problem than > help, if it can't close the bypass port (don't know whether the bent > part prevents that or not). > > On 10/29/06, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> Sorry about the incorrect time. >> >> I modified the T-stat by bending about 1/2 of the radiator flap up and >> creating a gap for constant flow. >> >> I ran it on just water to check for leaks at the t-stat and other hoses, >> then I dumped a bottle of Prestone flush in and drove it around the >> neighborhood in 2nd for about 5 minutes...2 different times. 5 minutes is >> about how long it takes to hit 100-110C. After the first trip, the radiator >> was still cold but the bottom hose was slightly warmer. After the 2nd trip >> around, the bottom hose was actually warm to touch, but the center of the >> radaitor was still cold....grrr. But, I take this to show that the water >> pump is making an effort, even with resistance, to move coolant through the >> system. Maybe with time and several more trips with the flush, it'll open >> the radaitor up. >> >> I'm fairly certain the head is cracked or at least the gasket is blown. >> With the pressure cap off and the engine idling you can see a constant wisp >> of vapor coming out. With the cap on, it doesn't take long to build enough >> pressure to cause the cap to release some of it, and that's a continual >> cycle. Sound right? >> > -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case? '83 300SD (241 kmi) '82 300CD (162 kmi) '82 300D (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work '85 300D (280,176) parts car
