You can buy the seal rings. They have call-outs in the EPC, so you might need 
to look over the parts guy's shoulder. There should be obvious "grooves" where 
the o-rings would sit on the bolt. I'd try it without replacing the bolt. If it 
is boogered up, you can buy the housing and the bolt still, they should not be 
that bad to replace (IIRC you have to remove the CC actuator then its pretty 
straightforward from there. Make sure to buy new crush rings for the 4? banjo 
fittings on the housing)

-j.

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> If the seals are missing or worn, should I purchase a new bolt? 
> 
> In a worst case scenario, what if the filter housing block is - in your 
> words - "boogered up? 
> 
> 
> On 2/11/07, John W. Reames III wrote: 
> > 
> > On Fri, 9 Feb 2007, andrew strasfogel wrote: 
> > 
> > > The 1985 300 CD is leaking fuel from the TOP of the main fuel filter 
> > > canister, right under the 19 mm (?) bolt that secures the filter. I 
> > can't 
> > > possibly tighten it any more. I wonder if there is a small metal gasket 
> > > that should be there belowe the head of the bolt - does anyone 
> > know? The 
> > > car is really nice so it offends me to smell the fuel aroma coming from 
> > > under the hood when the engine is purring away. :( 
> > 
> > The bolt is a hollow bolt with two o-rings on the bolt itself that seal it 
> > top and bottom. There should no t be a metal crush ring up there, and 
> > hopefully the filter mounting block is not too boogered up. 
> > -j. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________ 
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kevin kraly wrote:
> Well, Dad and I went out yesterday to take a look at it.  before we got 
> there, the owner had started it up and turned it around in the driveway.  He 
> left it idling for a couple minutes before it died.  Since it had been 
> sitting for a few months, I tried the primer pump which he knew nothin' 
> about and proceeded to attempt a prime.  A moderate amount of fuel gushed 
> out (old screw-in type), and I couldn't get the necessary 10psi behind it to 
> kick excess fuel past the squeaky sounding valve that routes it back to the 
> tank.  It caught on three cyls, but not enough to get it to run.  We tried a 
> little starting fluid which did very little.  Next, we tried jumping it to 
> get a bit more cranking speed, but still no go.  The owner left the charger 
> on it all night to get the battery up to the max.  He just called me to 
> inform me that it still wouldn't start.  Even if it starts which is 
> unlikely, the car is nothing special, pealing clearcoat, cracks in the 
> interior including dash cracking and major cracking in the top of the rear 
> seatback, missing dash wood trim, non-working radio, and hey, it's a 
> non-runner at present.  It does have new tires on Bundts and a passenger's 
> side mirror, so it's worth at least $500.  Believe it or not, the trunk is 
> DRY!

I expect that glow plugs could be marginal, valves tight and I expect 
there's water in the fuel.

Marshall
-- 
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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