Thanks Jim,
I finally figured this one out. My drainouts are setup backwards. I thought I
was draining the cold when indeed I was draining the hot... I couldn't figure
out why it was so hard to get the cold side empty and why I was periodically
getting a slug of water.
The joint finally did get finished. It looks HORRIBLE though. I may have to do
it again just to not have that awful joint in my house.
-Curt
Date: Sat, 15 Sep 2007 17:50:28 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: another thing that looks easy
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
In a message dated 9/15/2007 2:43:00 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Theres a horrible shower stall in our basement that I'm working to
take out.
Today I decided to tackle removing the plumbing.
I bought some 1/2" copper end caps, cut the pipe, sanded and all like
I've
seen my Dad do a million times but the DAMMED THING JUST WOULD NOT
SWEAT.
I couldn't get it to take solder for love or money...
Finally pulled the stub end out of the T it was in and essentially
swaged
the cap on. I got it WAY too hot (glowing) and just kept pounding the
solder to
it. Its never coming off but will it leak?
I managed to get it back into the T with a minimum of fuss but it sure
wouldn't take any more solder. Hopefully what was there will hold.
We'll see...
Curt,
Did you use flux paste of any type? Most plumbing solders do not have
flux
in them. The lead free plumbing solders are a little harder to run
but
sounds like you had plenty of heat. Make sure there is no water within
3 inches
of the joint, suck it out with a straw or siphon with a small hose.
Jim Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles
98 ML 320, 151 K miles
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