On that diagram, F1-F2 is the winding in the Rotor. All the U points
and the two windings labeled "3" are the primary windings in the
housing that give you 110V each, or 220V in series with a center tap,
just like power from the utility. Z1 - Z2 is a winding in the housing
that is used only for powering the rotor.  You don't need a special
winding and can power the rotor from one of the primary windings - but
you have to lower the voltage a lot and there is enough current that
you need a regulated switching power supply, or some kind of big-ass
resistor. The Chinese like to put in the extra winding and keep the
electronics simple. No argument from me there.
"5" is a bridge rectifier that converts the AC coming off the
excitation winding to DC to power the rotor. The zigzag thing with
green lines and a red cross arrow is a variable resistor. You adjust
that to change the output voltage of the primary windings. You
probably only need a few ohms of resistance. But that all depends on
the design of the thing. Some control circuits will have maybe 3 or 4
resistors already in place and you connect to the one(s) that give the
closest output voltage. Very low-tech :-) Personally, I would try to
avoid disconnecting the excitation voltage then the thing is spinning.

-Dave Walton

On 9/20/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > You don't need anything fancy to control the excitation voltage. I've
> > seen everything from a diode and a resistor, to a microprocessor board
> > with fuzzy logic that also controls the throttle. Here is a basic
> > troubleshooting guide:
> >
> > http://utterpower.com/Trouble.htm
>
> Thanks, I'd already found that guide, which was helpful.  The thing
> I don't understand is the two different excitation windings that seem
> to feed the regulator.
>
> > FYI - I have a 15kw China Genset and get 15 ohms between the rings on
> > the rotor. I show no reading (infinite resistance) between the rotor
> > winding and ground.
>
> Yeah, I suspect that there's something wrong there.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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