Hi,
  Silicone wipe on, and no excessive amount, will not cause any regrets. Just 
do not apply more than a coating to a paper gasket. Racers need to remove and 
reinstall a awful lot of parts and often reuse some gaskets, successfully 
prepared with black lightly applied silicone.
   
  Foolishly apply a bead to glue parts together and I have seen oil pump 
screens 80% blocked by unknowing fools, with disaster to engines. I am a long 
time engine builder.
   
  I sent my 1990 F250 95k miles plow truck to Chicago Differential for a rear 
bearing kit and $600 as a fair price requested synthetic gear lube. 500 miles 
later I chose to pull the cover and change gear lube after break in; No 
synthetic and 1 hour to chisel off the cover after the shop gobbed on a pound 
or more of what resembled tar. I reassembled it with a paper gasket and black 
silicon 2 years ago, just a proper coating. I stuck to common 90 wt.
   
  I follow myself often and want the next mechanic (old school) to recognize 
proper service.
   
  Respectfully
  Ed in Chicago  
  1969 Trans Am series AMC Javelins 2005-2006 Anchor Racing Grand American Cup 
M3 3car team.

LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  And, along with the things Peter mentioned, the silicone will break loose, 
roll up and get stuck in places you don't want it. This is especially 
important when dealing with the oil system and it's many small ports that 
can be completely plugged by silicone and some important (and typically 
expensive) part will be destroyed,

Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "EDWARD DENNIS" 
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 5:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Losing coolant, somewhere


> Hi,
> Why not silicone?
> I did an 82' 300sd 120k miles water pump replacement with a gasket 
> lightly coated with permatex black silicone. as I always do on this type 
> pump with gasket.
> I switched from the soft brown non-hardening type for removal is easier 
> with the silicone.
> Non-hardening does not mean it comes apart. Tough to remove in 2+years of 
> heat.
> Ed in Chicago
>
> LarryT wrote:
> There are at least 2 types of Permatex - one hardens and one stays soft -
> get the non-hardening type - just do not use a silicone based sealant..
>
> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> .
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Allan Streib"
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
> Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2007 3:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Losing coolant, somewhere
>
>
>>
>> On Nov 12, 2007, at 10:51 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
>>
>>> Most likely the shaft seal, usually you don't get a leaking gasket
>>> unless you didn't coat it with sealant going in.
>>
>> In the middle of the water pump replacement -- when I removed the old
>> pump it did not appear to have any gasket at all, would this be the
>> case for the factory pump? The new pump Rusty sent me does have a
>> gasket. I assume I should use Permatex on this, and what is the
>> torque for the bolts when I replace the pump? Should I use anti-
>> seize on them?
>>
>> Allan
>>
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>
>
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