Let me add some info, I wasn't expecting such a good response, thanks. I was flushing the cooling system and had both radiator hoses, both heater hoses and the thermostat out to do the flushing. It started getting hot on a short trip, so I added some coolant and headed home. It started again, so I opened my heater valve (manual) to add another radiator and while the temp needle climbed, the heater blew cold.
I did not suspect the thermostat, but tested it on the stove while it was out and it did well. Of course during flushing with a garden hose, through the heater core both ways, radiator both ways, etc, etc, everything got wet. Are there any clues in that story? I'll start checking what you guys suggested and check back here shortly. Thanks Harry On Tue, Mar 4, 2008 at 10:32 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > In a message dated 3/4/2008 9:00:30 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > 1995 pickup, V6. It starts quickly, then dies when the switch returns > to > the run position. I can even increase RPMs while the starter is engaged. > I > can remember the old days when while cranking, the coil got 12 volts, > then > ran with 6 volts. Do these new fangled chines do that? > > > > Harry, > > You are correct, suh! There used to be an extra contact on GM solenoids > that put 12 volts directly to the coil for easier starting. Not > necessary any > more with electronic ignitions. HOWEVER: there is a fuel pump relay > that > would normally get it's signal from the engine computer management, and > if the > ECM does not see that the engine is turning over, it shuts off after a 2 > second priming period. You could put 12 volts directly to the fuel > pump( I > think there is a test point on the under hood service jack where you can > read > fuel pump voltage directly) and see if the engine remains running. I > have not > done this, but I think you can put power to the fuel pump via the very > same > test point. A new crank position sensor would be the fix. If it is not > the > wires--see next paragraph. > > Seems to me there was a service bulletin on that era Toyota which said > that > the wiring harness was designed a little snug and that engine motion > would > cause wire breakage, especially with weak motor mounts. Might it be as > soon > as the engine catches, it tilts over a little, causing the broken wire to > separate? Open the hood and watch for engine movement while starting the > car. > You might even brace it with a piece of wood. > > Or if there was one of those cheap anti theft systems installed (dealer > rip > off) it might be interrupting the engine ignition. > > I like the first scenario best! > > Jim Friesen > Phoenix AZ > 79 300SD, 264 K miles > 98 ML 320, 153 K miles > > > > > **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & > Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) > _______________________________________ > http://www.okiebenz.com > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com > _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
