> Fairly small pocket of liquid I imagine? A few tablespoons in this case. When it got too murky to see through I'd just slop more water over it with the bucket and have a look to see if I was done. If not, drop in another pinch of soda and come back later.
I bought a bunch of bricks of modeling clay at Goodwill some time ago, $1 per brick. (More like a thick trivet, four bars per package.) I figured I might use them for holding welding material in place, or this very trick. > Sounds like it didn't take long, was this somewhere the clay > could rest or did it have to stick on? Half hour or so. Slower gives smoother results, you turn the current down for that. I used the 12V setting, 6V would have been slower. The current density was high on such a small geometry spot, the bubbles were roiling off the iron wire once it got going. My spot was on a sloping part of the hood, right where the snout crease is. The modeling clay was only in the shape of a 'C', basically I just bent the clay bar and stuck it down on the hood. (Has to hold in the liquid!) It needed to be something like 3/4" deep to keep all the rust covered with liquid. I had the hood popped but down to level it a little bit more. This technique is effing miraculous: extremely effective, and extremely cheap. All it requires is that you be able to submerge the rusted area. (I have heard of using a cloth pad and a drip to keep an area damp, with the electrode on the other side of the pad. I've never tried it, I imagine it is much slower.) -- Jim _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
