>  Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 07:00:04 -0400
>  From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  Subject: Re: [MBZ] trans R&R shade-tree style
>  To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
>  Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>  I'm thinking I'd put my ramps on doubled 2x12s to gain an extra 3",
>  drive the front onto the ramps, then jack up the back and put it
>  on a pair of those big truck jack stands. If the drive isn't concrete,
>  I'd put the stands on 2x12 for stability.
>  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38847
>  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34924
>  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=39178
>  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3185
>  http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95640
>
>  Luther wrote:
>  >
>  > I'm thinking I need about 2' of clearance under the engine to squeeze
>  > the tranny
>  > in and out.  Maybe those leftover 2x12s that I have will work when stacked 
> and
>  > screwed together.
>  >
>  > --
>  > Luther   KB5QHU    Alma, Ark

Luther:

I did my 300d (w124) w/the 6 ton stands (4 of them, under still sound
lifting pads, front higher than rear) and the 800lb jack above.  With
the stands about 3/4 up and the jack down and plate tilted forward a
bit to lower the bell housing I cleared by about 1/2 inch.  Don't
screw w/the scissors jack; not worth the hassles (800lb one much more
stable and adjustability saves time and grief). can always sell the
jack when done!  Personally I don't like ramps.

Would advise against wood as replacement for jack stands.  If using
wood at least bolt together- screws break WAY too easily.

While you're in there- great time to replace the rear main seal.

Are you putting in a reman/junkyard tranny or DIY rebuild?  The
rebuild isn't as hard as it might sound!

Tony Wirtel

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