Yes, you can make the '96-'97 FM ECU ignore the TPS idle switch because it has an option for using a TPS without and idle switch.
1) Enable the no-idle-switch mode. (TPS=10 is instead used to signal idle mode). 2) Alter the TPS calibration so that the TPS signal won't go below 12-15. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Bill Cardell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Ray Ayala" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]> Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2008 7:54 AM Subject: RE: Help diagnosing an intake leak > On the subject of an Uber manifold-- the TPS is well-nigh impossible to > get off without disassembling the bypass- I've been trying the propane > trick, but with the idle oscillating up to fuel cut and back... I haven't > been able to diagnose anything. Is there any way I can use the Link to > ignore the TPS enough? Maybe change the offset? > > Just for kicks, I tried the propane trick while the engine was > idle-oscillating- no difference. I unplugged the PCV and put the propane > straight into that hose, and no difference! > > Matt > > On Mon, September 15, 2008 9:55 pm, Bill Cardell wrote: >> It's an uber manifold, so that one isn't there. A plethora of new >> possibilities for leaks instead. >> >> >> Bill Cardell >> TurboDog's Dad >> www.flyinmiata.com >> www.fmwestfield.com >> orders 1-800-FLY-MX5S >> Before you call our tech line (970.464.5600) please check out the FAQ >> section of our website >> >> >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ray Ayala >> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 8:27 PM >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> Cc: [email protected] >> Subject: Re: Help diagnosing an intake leak >> >> Have you already checked the infamous cap on the rear manifold nipple? >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> To: "Ray Ayala" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Cc: <[email protected]> >> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:16 PM >> Subject: Re: Help diagnosing an intake leak >> >> >>> The original thing I tried was to block off the intake with a dog >> 'Kong' >>> modified with an air hose end. Thankfully, my wife thought of the >> Kong >>> before I had to go down to the adult toy store and look for what >>> originally came to mind (Rhymes with 'mutt' plug). Just think of that >>> conversation- "Honestly, I need the extra large one, for my car!" >> <yeah, >>> right, they would have thought". >>> >>> I ended up putting the (low) pressure in via the power-brake booster >> hose. >>> That did allow me to eliminate that hose and the stuff directly >> connected >>> to that- I unplug it from the SC, cover the hose end with my finger, >> the >>> hissing goes away. I definitely hear something that sounds like it is >>> coming from the engine area, but I *really* don't want to take off the >>> intake manifold, or the SC if I can help it. >>> >>> Matt >>> >>> On Mon, September 15, 2008 7:15 pm, Ray Ayala wrote: >>>> Have you tried simply blocking off the SC inlet to see if there's >> still >>>> enough intake air to idle? On a TB I use a jar lid with a molded-on >>>> gasket >>>> as a cap but have never personally tried it with an SC inlet. >>>> >>>> >>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>>> To: <[email protected]> >>>> Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:42 AM >>>> Subject: Help diagnosing an intake leak >>>> >>>> >>>>> After what Ray pointed out to me (below), I looked at some old DLL >> logs >>>>> and saw that my Idle MAP reading that is now about 70 used to be in >> the >>>>> 40 >>>>> range. So I slapped myself around a bit and started to look for a >>>>> vacuum >>>>> leak. I haven't found anything particularly bad. >>>>> >>>>> Anyone have any tip or tricks on looking for an intake leak? I >> tried >>>>> pressurizing the intake to a few PSI with my compressor and >> listening >>>>> for >>>>> hissing, but it has been really hard to localize- possibly going >> through >>>>> an open intake valve?. One thing that I was wondering- how much of >> the >>>>> stock 1.8l engine's cycle has all of the intake valves closed? I >> did >>>>> find >>>>> a better place to put the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum hose, but >>>>> wiggling stuff around hasn't brought me any closer to bringing the >>>>> vacuum >>>>> down to a more appropriate value. >>>>> >>>>> Regards, >>>>> >>>>> Matt >>>>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> On Sun, September 7, 2008 1:12 pm, Ray Ayala wrote: >>>>>> The log shows the idle switch signal on even when the map signal >> show >>>>>> that >>>>>> either the throttle is open or there's a big intake air leak. The >> idle >>>>>> switch signal kills the fuel completely when rpm is above the idle >>>>>> control >>>>>> range (~1850 rpm). >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- >>>>>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>>>>> To: <[email protected]> >>>>>> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 7:39 PM >>>>>> Subject: Bucking, DLL help >>>>>> >>>>>> >>>>>>> Howdy folks, I'm trying to figure out my latest issue, I seem to >>>>>>> remember >>>>>>> this type of problem being discussed before, but I didn't take >>>>>>> adequate >>>>>>> notes. Right now, the most annoying problem I have is that my car >> has >>>>>>> some very abrupt on/off transitions- also the "idle oscillation" >> is >>>>>>> pretty >>>>>>> bad. You can see both of these characteristics in this (really >> long) >>>>>>> log: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >> <http://www.hazmat.com/~mjb/projects/miata/DataLogs/2008-09-06a.bin> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The vitals on this car: >>>>>>> 1996 with prototype Ubercharger (intercooled, with air temperature >>>>>>> sensor) >>>>>>> 550cc Injectors >>>>>>> Vishnu Dual feed fuel rail >>>>>>> Link ECU (non OBD- I believe that this is referred to as a 94-95 >> Link) >>>>>>> AEM WB02 >>>>>>> Stock engine internals >>>>>>> Setup for (but not installed) NB02 >>>>>>> >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Another thing I'm thinking of- I realize that tuning on the road >> is >>>>>>> difficult, dangerous, and often runs afoul of the law- has anyone >>>>>>> created >>>>>>> a script for the most cost effective way to use a dyno? The one >> that >>>>>>> I >>>>>>> can rent time on is a brake dyno (not a Dynojet). I want to tune >> for >>>>>>> 1) >>>>>>> emissions and 2) power with drivability- and 1 and 2 don't have to >> be >>>>>>> the >>>>>>> same map :) >>>>>>> >>>>>>> The vast majority of the adjustments appear to be with fuel- is it >>>>>>> because >>>>>>> changing fuel zones is easier and more effective than adjusting >>>>>>> timing? >>>>>>> Or is timing just a lot more dangerous to play with. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> With the 94-95 link, can I have both WB and NB O2 sensors logged? >> I >>>>>>> realize only one will actually be adjusting settings. If I tune >> for >>>>>>> one >>>>>>> sensor, will I need to change maps when I move between sensors, or >> can >>>>>>> I >>>>>>> just do it through the Link keypad? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> I realize I need to sit down with the tuning manuals from FM- I >> went >>>>>>> looking on Flyin' Miata's site and didn't find the Link tuning >> manual- >>>>>>> I've got an old copy- what is the latest revision? >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Regards, >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Matt Bennett >>>>>>> Austin, TX >>>>>>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger >>>>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>>>> Miatapower mailing list >>>>>>> [email protected] >>>>>>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower >>>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> _______________________________________________ >>>>> Miatapower mailing list >>>>> [email protected] >>>>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower >>>> >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Miatapower mailing list >> [email protected] >> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower >> > _______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected] http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
