The original thing I tried was to block off the intake with a dog 'Kong' modified with an air hose end. Thankfully, my wife thought of the Kong before I had to go down to the adult toy store and look for what originally came to mind (Rhymes with 'mutt' plug). Just think of that conversation- "Honestly, I need the extra large one, for my car!" <yeah, right, they would have thought".
I ended up putting the (low) pressure in via the power-brake booster hose. That did allow me to eliminate that hose and the stuff directly connected to that- I unplug it from the SC, cover the hose end with my finger, the hissing goes away. I definitely hear something that sounds like it is coming from the engine area, but I *really* don't want to take off the intake manifold, or the SC if I can help it. Matt On Mon, September 15, 2008 7:15 pm, Ray Ayala wrote: > Have you tried simply blocking off the SC inlet to see if there's still > enough intake air to idle? On a TB I use a jar lid with a molded-on > gasket > as a cap but have never personally tried it with an SC inlet. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[email protected]> > Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 7:42 AM > Subject: Help diagnosing an intake leak > > >> After what Ray pointed out to me (below), I looked at some old DLL logs >> and saw that my Idle MAP reading that is now about 70 used to be in the >> 40 >> range. So I slapped myself around a bit and started to look for a >> vacuum >> leak. I haven't found anything particularly bad. >> >> Anyone have any tip or tricks on looking for an intake leak? I tried >> pressurizing the intake to a few PSI with my compressor and listening >> for >> hissing, but it has been really hard to localize- possibly going through >> an open intake valve?. One thing that I was wondering- how much of the >> stock 1.8l engine's cycle has all of the intake valves closed? I did >> find >> a better place to put the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum hose, but >> wiggling stuff around hasn't brought me any closer to bringing the >> vacuum >> down to a more appropriate value. >> >> Regards, >> >> Matt >> '96 with prototype Ubercharger >> >> >> On Sun, September 7, 2008 1:12 pm, Ray Ayala wrote: >>> The log shows the idle switch signal on even when the map signal show >>> that >>> either the throttle is open or there's a big intake air leak. The idle >>> switch signal kills the fuel completely when rpm is above the idle >>> control >>> range (~1850 rpm). >>> >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Matt Bennett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>> To: <[email protected]> >>> Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 7:39 PM >>> Subject: Bucking, DLL help >>> >>> >>>> Howdy folks, I'm trying to figure out my latest issue, I seem to >>>> remember >>>> this type of problem being discussed before, but I didn't take >>>> adequate >>>> notes. Right now, the most annoying problem I have is that my car has >>>> some very abrupt on/off transitions- also the "idle oscillation" is >>>> pretty >>>> bad. You can see both of these characteristics in this (really long) >>>> log: >>>> >>>> <http://www.hazmat.com/~mjb/projects/miata/DataLogs/2008-09-06a.bin> >>>> >>>> The vitals on this car: >>>> 1996 with prototype Ubercharger (intercooled, with air temperature >>>> sensor) >>>> 550cc Injectors >>>> Vishnu Dual feed fuel rail >>>> Link ECU (non OBD- I believe that this is referred to as a 94-95 Link) >>>> AEM WB02 >>>> Stock engine internals >>>> Setup for (but not installed) NB02 >>>> >>>> >>>> Another thing I'm thinking of- I realize that tuning on the road is >>>> difficult, dangerous, and often runs afoul of the law- has anyone >>>> created >>>> a script for the most cost effective way to use a dyno? The one that >>>> I >>>> can rent time on is a brake dyno (not a Dynojet). I want to tune for >>>> 1) >>>> emissions and 2) power with drivability- and 1 and 2 don't have to be >>>> the >>>> same map :) >>>> >>>> The vast majority of the adjustments appear to be with fuel- is it >>>> because >>>> changing fuel zones is easier and more effective than adjusting >>>> timing? >>>> Or is timing just a lot more dangerous to play with. >>>> >>>> With the 94-95 link, can I have both WB and NB O2 sensors logged? I >>>> realize only one will actually be adjusting settings. If I tune for >>>> one >>>> sensor, will I need to change maps when I move between sensors, or can >>>> I >>>> just do it through the Link keypad? >>>> >>>> I realize I need to sit down with the tuning manuals from FM- I went >>>> looking on Flyin' Miata's site and didn't find the Link tuning manual- >>>> I've got an old copy- what is the latest revision? >>>> >>>> Regards, >>>> >>>> Matt Bennett >>>> Austin, TX >>>> '96 with prototype Ubercharger >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Miatapower mailing list >>>> [email protected] >>>> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower >>> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Miatapower mailing list >> [email protected] >> http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower > _______________________________________________ Miatapower mailing list [email protected] http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower
