One other thing:  SLIDER PINS.  Stock calipers front and reas use slider pins 
that must be lubed, preferably with silicon grease.  Usually if a caliper stops 
working, it is because the slider pins dried out - no lube - and then became 
scored, so the caliper was unable to open and close properly.  





-----Original Message-----
From: B Johnson <[email protected]>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wed, Mar 2, 2011 1:16 am
Subject: thank you list! and...


thanks to this list I now have an IAC, as well as a spare computer for my '92 
with Auto trans.  also, funny story several years ago I asked for and got sold 
a replacement airbag computer to fix that nagging blinking light.  but 
replacing it required removing the dash and I could never find the time and 
ambition. so I sold the car with the module sitting in the spare tire in the 
trunk.  2 years later the buyer (a friend) sold the car back to me. that damn 
module is still sitting in there. its been two MORE years and I am almost ready 
(come spring) to tackle removing the dash. I may even replace the heater hoses 
at that time (is that advisable?)


ANYWAY,  I have a brake question. it feels like I may have a dragging brake. 
and mileage is down a bit. I think I can jack the car up (again, when the snow 
and ice melts the rest of the way), and turn the wheels one by one. I feel more 
decel than normal when I let off the gas. 


So the brakes are also pulsing so I was thinking to just buy rebuilt calipers 
and new rotors and go with the Hawk street pads as discussed earlier. 


What has been the experience with auto store rebuilt calipers?  Also, are there 
different rotors avail, and do some resist warping more than others? This is a 
daily driver plus I tow a trailer occasionally with it, believe it or not.


In about a year I do plan to build another V8 Miata using the FM subframe etc 
and undecided whether Ford (very cheap) or Chevy (very good) power.








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