When you had the cross over tube off, did you mess with the MAF connection (on top of air filter box)?
Ken Bogart ----------------------------------------------------- 96 Montego Blue FFS Coldside (His) 97 Black & Tan (Hers) 90 Crystal White (sons) ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.miatacare.com http://www.cincimiata.com http://www.bcchallenger.org MiataMail.com list owner On Fri, Mar 11, 2011 at 11:11 AM, Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) < [email protected]> wrote: > OK, so I found out the wire colours I needed and testing the inj supply at > the loom connector. I got a nice bright light with key ON when bulb was > connected from the +12V side of injector wiring to ground. The bulb stayed > bright during cranking and only dropped slightly in intensity. I did the > same test using a multimeter and the voltage dropped from 12.6 to 9.9 during > cranking. Is that significant? > > > > I had the crossover tube off the car to get access to the loom connector > and with key ON, I could hear a high pitch hum coming from the IAC on > throttle body, is that significant? > > > > I also tried bypassing the main EGI relay with a big paperclip and that > made no difference. > > > > I pulled the carpet up to see the footplate where the ECU is located and it > still has the snap-off dome nut heads so no-one has ever been in tampering > with anything in there. > > > > I’m still curious as to what the various relays are under the dashboard. I > found this picture, It’s for a right hand drive car like mine. > > > > http://www.555subaru.co.uk/Dsc01949-1.jpg > > > > It shows the fuel pump relay on the far left, the immobilzer unit above and > to the right of that, then the door lock control module further right > (opposite side of the brake pedal brackets to the fuel pump relay). But then > further to the right are about 5 other relays which I have no idea about. I > do know that at least one of them is operating and then going off a second > or two after cranking stops. Can anyone shed any light on these or point me > in the direction of a set of 2001 wiring diagrams? > > > > How likely is it that the ECU is bad, is it a common fault? And if that is > the problem, can a used ECU from another car be swapped in? I know someone > breaking a 2004 that might be a good donor for parts. > > > > Thanks, > > Rich > > > > *From:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) > *Sent:* 11 March 2011 13:39 > *To:* 'Ray Ayala'; [email protected] > > *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed > > > > I can’t get access to the injector connectors, looks like would need to > remove the inlet manifold to get to them. However, I can get to the loom > connector at the front near the TB. > > > > Can someone give me the wire colour details for the injector wires at this > connector so that I can make this test? > > > > Thanks, > > Rich > > > > > > *From:* Ray Ayala [mailto:[email protected]] > *Sent:* 11 March 2011 05:21 > *To:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services); [email protected] > > *Subject:* Re: Non-starting 2001 help needed > > > > Pull off one of the injector connectors and measure the voltage on the two > contacts, one at a time, relative to engine block ground. One of the > contacts should have 12v on it when the key switch is on. If neither one > does then the most likely culprit is blown contacts in the main ign relay, > but could possibly also be wiring to the relay (think fusible link wiring) > or the fuse. If one side of the connector does have +12v power, connect a > 12v light bulb (a big incandescent bulb such as is used for older non-LED > brake lights) between ground and that 12v contact and watch to see if the > voltage on the +12v contact stays at 12v (with the bulb lit brightly) or > drops substantially lower. If it drops then there is a wiring or relay > problem with that +12v source. If it doesn't drop then the ECU is not > driving the injectors when you crank the engine and you're back where you > started. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > *From:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) <[email protected]> > > *To:* [email protected] > > *Sent:* Thursday, March 10, 2011 10:02 AM > > *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed > > > > I’ve just checked the following: > > > > Cams turn when cranking – they do > > All fuses inside car – all good > > All fuses under hood – all good > > Main EGI relay – Seems ok, I can feel it clicking as I turn key to on > > Main engine earth strap intact and good low resistance reading between > engine and chassis > > With key on checked power to Cam sensor and coils – all good > > Checked earth to cam sensor and coils – all good > > > > Going to borrow a spare Cam sensor and fault code reader tonight and see if > that shows anything. > > > > Rich > > > > > > *From:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) > *Sent:* 10 March 2011 16:23 > *To:* 'Bill Cardell'; [email protected] > *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed > > > > I’ll do another check for broken wires and good earths etc. I was working > on the car whilst the battery was charging up. It had an aftermarket remote > central locking kit fitted that was not working (power locking via key was > still working). I traced the fault to a bad ground under the dash. The only > connection other that power and earth was a connection to the purple wire > input to the OEM power door lock module. I have since completely removed > the aftermarket kit just in case but it has made no difference. > > > > I also removed an aftermarket header and exhaust and replaced it with the > standard and had to disconnect the air box etc. to get access. I’ve gone > over these connections 2 or 3 times to see if they are all good. > > > > I’ll check the cams are turning tonight. > > > > Thanks, > > Rich > > > > > > *From:* Bill Cardell [mailto:[email protected]] > *Sent:* 10 March 2011 15:30 > *To:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services); Ken Bogart; > [email protected] > *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed > > > > broken wires, loose connectors, non rotating cams? And recent > "improvements"? Always look where you last worked. > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) [mailto:[email protected]] > *Sent:* Thu 3/10/2011 8:09 AM > *To:* Bill Cardell; Ken Bogart; [email protected] > *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed > > Apart from cam sensor, crank sensor and immobilizer are there any other > components feeding info to the ECU that might prevent it from firing the > injectors? > > > > The first two look relatively easy to check, I’ve no idea how I would > troubleshoot an immobilizer issue? > > > > Thanks, > > Rich > > > > *From:* Bill Cardell [mailto:[email protected]] > *Sent:* 10 March 2011 14:50 > *To:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services); Ken Bogart; > [email protected] > *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed > > > > You're not necessarily cutting *power* to the injectors-they are turned > on/off by switched ground from the ecu. > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* [email protected] on behalf of Bell, Richard (GE > Energy Services) > *Sent:* Thu 3/10/2011 4:55 AM > *To:* Ken Bogart; [email protected] > *Subject:* RE: Non-starting 2001 help needed > > Battery charged up to 12.6V and cranked well so think that is OK. I will > check for cam belt today. > > > > I’m just wondering what could cut power to the fuel injectors but still > allow the fuel pump to run? > > > > Thanks, > > Rich > > > > *From:* [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] *On Behalf Of *Ken > Bogart > *Sent:* 10 March 2011 11:43 > *To:* Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) > *Cc:* [email protected] > *Subject:* Re: Non-starting 2001 help needed > > > > Could be weak battery... but sounds like a classic broken timing belt. Can > you see the cam turning through the oil fill hole? > > > > Probably not, but simple to check for. > > > Ken Bogart > ----------------------------------------------------- > 96 Montego Blue FFS Coldside (His) > 97 Black & Tan (Hers) > 90 Crystal White (sons) > ------------------------------------------------------ > http://www.miatacare.com > http://www.cincimiata.com > http://www.bcchallenger.org > MiataMail.com list owner > > On Thu, Mar 10, 2011 at 4:23 AM, Bell, Richard (GE Energy Services) < > [email protected]> wrote: > > Hi Folks, > > I wonder if anyone can shed some light on my issue as I'm getting > nowhere at the moment. Car is a late 2001 and was running fine before > sitting for a week. Battery wasn't great and went flat, however, I > managed to get it back to full charge. Car cranks fine but refuses to > fire. After cranking, I pulled a plug and it was completely dry and > there is no spark when cranking with the plug against the cam cover. > However, I do hear the fuel pump run for about 0.5 seconds after I stop > cranking. I have no CEL and no fault codes logged. There is no key > warning light on to suggest immobiliser issue. > > Can anyone suggest any possible causes? I'm going to borrow a crank and > cam sensor to see if they are causing issues as I read sometimes they > don't cause fault codes. But other than that, what else can I check? Can > someone point me in the right direction of some wiring diagrams for a > 2001? > > Thanks in advance, > Rich > _______________________________________________ > Miatapower mailing list > [email protected] > http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Miatapower mailing list > [email protected] > http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower > > > _______________________________________________ > Miatapower mailing list > [email protected] > http://list.miatapower.net/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/miatapower > >
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