Patrick Austin wrote:
Someone once posted a great step-by-step for A2 transmission removal
on the list. Does anyone still have it?
No, didn't see it... but I'll see if I can help anyways:
My '85 8v GTI w/ Audi 2.0l block has a really bad 2nd gear syncho and
the clutch is scarilly stiff and starting to slip for some reason.
I've gone through and replaced the cable and its still really bad.
Until both issues are fixed, I don't really feel like taking the car
to the track and running it hard. So, I was thinking of swapping in a
used tranny and a new clutch kit sometime in the next week or two
while I'm inbetween jobs. I guess my question is this:
What transmissions will fit? Currently it's running around with a 16v
scirocco transmission. What are the differences between 16v and 8v
transmissions, old and new, etc? Output shafts and clutches were
I believe all A2 trannys will bolt up. 8V trannys have a smaller input
shaft, so you need to use an 8V clutch disk for an 8V tranny, and a 16V
for a 16V one. Go with a 16V pressure plate regardless of what tranny
you use, it'll grip better. You can look up tranny codes, gear ratios,
output shafts, etc. here:
http://www.jwsvws.com/020%20Transmission%20Guide.html
http://www.scirocco.org/gears/
Here's a link to an R&R procedure:
http://www.nwlink.com/~vdb/vw/Transmission/Clutch_Replacement
There's also a recent thread covering tranny removal up on the
vwvortex.com Transmission forum -- they're offline right now, so I can't
provide a link -- but it should still be on the 1st or 2nd page. This
contains my "patented" method for removal: support block from above with
a hoist, then once you've removed the tranny mount arms & starter (thus
detaching the block/tranny from the front & tranny mounts), jack up the
passenger side of the block so that it sort of swivels around the
longtitudal axis of the car, lowering the tranny end a bit. This will
allow the tranny end to clear the body (inner side of wheelwell) when
you pull it away from the engine, thus reducing the required amount of
cursing by a very large factor -- last time I did it, it was actually
almost painless. You still need to rotate it 90 degrees as the other
posts point out, so that the diff clears the body.
Other random notes:
* You have to unbolt the clutch dust cover -- two or three 10mm bolts
next to the oilpan, plus a a small metal plate behind the passenger side
output shaft (two more 10mm bolts). Kind of hard to see unless you know
where to look. Unless someone left the stupid plate off when installing
the tranny (I do... it's the two most painful bolts of the whole bunch).
* I remove the driver's side half-axle. Much easier to get the tranny out.
* Must-replace list: rear main seal, tranny input seal, pusrod seal,
pushrod bushing.
* Ignore a bolt kit at your own peril (I ignored it once, tranny blew up
a week later just to show me my place...)
Cheers,
Oleg
