half tooth off between the 2 cam gears? thats kind of where mine is at. once i got the slack out its real close which has me wondering about the tightness if it can bind up enough to send the marks off one way i assume the slack is also present turning the other way.
On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:00:49 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello wrote: > > For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up, > eventually I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth > never matched up exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off. > > On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch <dama...@sbcglobal.net > <javascript:>> wrote: > > i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the > marks would line up on the cams. if i go a tooth either way the marks > touch when not parallel. > > what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the > exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the > cam gears is not perfect. > > i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed > there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up? > > i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams so > i guess all bets are off. > > i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward > center of cam caps with stock cams. if i get my marks lined up on these > cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle > of the head an using those studs as a marker. so i guess one sits just a > tad higher at that point than the other. is this how aftermarket cams work > or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different? > > also does the chain sound too loose? i see no markings on that part and > see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different. should each > have their own part number or can you swap between ok? > > i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat > and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just > fall off. not sure if thats how the stock setup is? > > > i thought about just putting it back together. and/or trying stock cams. > the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one of > these motors up close. > > > On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips < > holland...@gmail.com <javascript:>> wrote: > > > When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt, > the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured > they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell > immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it > did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam > retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and > rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled > everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved > freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and > a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car > was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all > those alignment marks MUST > be exactly aligned, or all bets are off. > ~Holland > On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net <javascript:>> > wrote: > > im in california, ugh! i found out the cams are estas. > > this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with > stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i > made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off. this car was running > like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons. im scared to > touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam. > > i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing > towards the middle at the same angle? its hard to tell exactly but it > seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam > lobe might match the other cam. to me right now it looks just a tad off. > > > > On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote: > > What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog? In > the USA, most of these cars are now exempt. > > -Larry > > *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *damac2004 > *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM > *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com> > *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com > *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have? > > so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end? > > is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to > see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same > part number between 2 and 1.8 liter? > > i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with > adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams. i got > colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem. > i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts. > > i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car > back stock. > > On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote: > > The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very > minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be > concerned. > ~Holland > On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it. > > is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil > pump? if im reading right it can only help? then i won't have to worry. > > the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with > the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine. > > > is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front > of the block where they meet? im used to seeing that area flush on > mydiesel where mated. > > On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote: > > Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors > which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and > Moronic for 16v. I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous > owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast > spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old > and new model parts when their supply was thin. In 91-92, VW quality was, > um, not-so-good and their supply was the same. > > On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips < > faster...@pacbell.net> wrote: > > Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the > internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need > for the 9A and be done with it. > On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > 1. yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v > 2.0 > > 2. i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the > left of the block breather fitting? each one looks the same, one has a > bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip. > > 3. this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it > higher for me to get underneath. i was trying to feel around back there > from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower > block is a big embossed A > > i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine. this > still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and > smaller oil pump gear? there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so > obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine. > > > > On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote: > > Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the > windshield? The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by > some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't > utilize an ECU. > ~Holland > On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after > having seen all the hack jobs. for all i know another motor is in there :( > > > im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture > i attached, down below that is the part number. > > > On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote: > > I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 > liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A. > ~Holland > On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > is there some kind of decoder? when i search google i come up with few > and differing answers. i want to find out what engine i have so i can make > sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged. > > > the block says: 051 103 021 > > the head says: *051103373* > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "MK2-16v" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/ group/mk2-16v > <https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v>. > To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/ > msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b- 4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b% 40googlegroups.com > 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