half tooth off between the 2 cam gears?  thats kind of where mine is at. 
 once i got the slack out its real close which has me wondering about the 
tightness if it can bind up enough to send the marks off one way i assume 
the slack is also present turning the other way.



On Saturday, February 13, 2016 at 3:00:49 PM UTC-8, stevenarguello wrote:
>
> For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up, 
> eventually I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth 
> never matched up exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off. 
>
> On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch <dama...@sbcglobal.net 
> <javascript:>> wrote:
>
> i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the 
> marks would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks 
> touch when not parallel.
>
> what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the 
> exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the 
> cam gears is not perfect.
>
> i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed 
> there is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?
>
> i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams so 
> i guess all bets are off.
>
> i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward 
> center of cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these 
> cams the lobes at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle 
> of the head an using those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a 
> tad higher at that point than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work 
> or is it a bad sign that the heights are just a tad different?
>
> also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and 
> see the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each 
> have their own part number or can you swap between ok?
>
> i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat 
> and press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just 
> fall off.  not sure if thats how the stock setup is?
>
>
> i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock cams. 
>  the chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one of 
> these motors up close.
>
>
> On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips <
> holland...@gmail.com <javascript:>> wrote:
>
>
> When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt, 
> the marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured 
> they were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell 
> immediately that it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it 
> did before I messed with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam 
> retainer caps on one cam so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and 
> rechecked the alignment marks. They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled 
> everything and started the engine once again. Perfect! The engine revved 
> freely and more quickly than ever. I already had a lightened flywheel, and 
> a bunch of other mods done to the engine, and with the new cams, the car 
> was noticeably faster than it had ever been. Moral of the story is all 
> those alignment marks MUST
> be exactly aligned, or all bets are off. 
> ~Holland
> On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net <javascript:>> 
> wrote:
>
> im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.
>
> this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with 
> stock pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i 
> made sure the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running 
> like this, i don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to 
> touch it in that sense since it had an adjustable cam.
>
> i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing 
> towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it 
> seems if i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam 
> lobe might match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.
>
>
>
> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
>
> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In 
> the USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
>  
> -Larry
>  
> *From:* mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] *On 
> Behalf Of *damac2004
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
> *To:* MK2-16v <mk2...@googlegroups.com>
> *Cc:* mg...@yahoo.com
> *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
>  
> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
>  
> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to 
> see what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same 
> part number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
>  
> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with 
> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got 
> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem. 
>  i emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
>  
> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car 
> back stock.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
> minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
> concerned. 
> ~Holland
> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>  
> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil 
> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>  
> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with 
> the 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>  
>  
> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front 
> of the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on 
> mydiesel where mated.
>
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>
> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors 
> which were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and 
> Moronic for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous 
> owner) under the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast 
> spare parts bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old 
> and new model parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, 
> um, not-so-good and their supply was the same.  
>  
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips <
> faster...@pacbell.net> wrote:
>  
> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the 
> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need 
> for the 9A and be done with it.
> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004 <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 
> 2.0
>  
> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the 
> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a 
> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>  
> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it 
> higher for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there 
> from underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower 
> block is a big embossed A
>  
> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this 
> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and 
> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so 
> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>  
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the 
> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by 
> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't 
> utilize an ECU.
> ~Holland
> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after 
> having seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>  
>  
> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture 
> i attached, down below that is the part number.
>
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>
> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 
> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
> ~Holland
> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few 
> and differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make 
> sure i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>  
>  
> the block says:  051 103 021
>  
> the head says:  *051103373*
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