The fuel pumps can easily be damaged just by running the car out of fuel. One time, I was driving home from work, and noticed the fuel gauge was reading very close to empty. I decided I would easily make it home, and planned on getting gas on the way to work the next day. But when I started the car the next morning, the gauge now read a little higher, so I assumed I would easily make it to work, and would get fuel at lunch. I Made it almost to work when the car died. The Fuel gauge was still reading above the last line, so I didn't believe I was actually out of gas. So I attempted to restart the car for a few minutes. Big mistake. I called AAA and they brought a couple of gallons of gas. Car wouldn't start. I had it towed to the shop where I had work done on the car when I didn't have time to do it myself (New Dimensions - remember them?). Turned out I had fried both pumps because they overheated since they are intended to be cooled by the fuel. About $500 later, I had learned a very expensive lesson.
~Holland On Mar 1, 2016 11:58, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote: > Good point on the fueling system. Bad gas (Ethanol is the devil!), > clogged fuel filter, clogged fuel lines, failing fuel pump(s) or failing > injectors could definitely contribute to running issues – I would imagine. > > > > -Larry > > > > *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Holland Phillips > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 1:42 PM > *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com > *Subject:* RE: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have? > > > > I just thought of something. Any chance the fuel in the tank could be > contaminated? Since I think you said you're in California, the fuel here is > probably the worst in the U.S.. With the ethanol and other crazy additives > that's in it, it has an extremely short shelf life. > An other thing, I wonder how the fuel pumps are? If either the main or > transfer pump aren't healthy, that can cause weird running problems. The > easiest way to check the pumps is to disconnect the input line at the fuel > distributor and have someone turn on the ignition for a second. You should > get a really healthy stream of fuel. As I recall, the main pump operates at > around 50psi, give or take. > We're reaching for straws at this point, so the more you check that looks > correct, that's fewer possibilities to deal with. > > ~Holland > > On Mar 1, 2016 10:15, "Larry Velez" <la...@sinu.com> wrote: > > I just checked and Marren is still in business and still rebuilding > injectors of all ages: > > > > https://www.injector.com/ > > > > https://www.facebook.com/MarrenFuelInjection/ > > > > -Larry > > > > *From:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Holland Phillips > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 1, 2016 12:56 PM > *To:* mk2-16v@googlegroups.com > *Subject:* Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have? > > > > I agree with you Chad. At this point, I would perform a compression test. > If that looks good, then I'm at a loss as to where to go next. Maybe look > at the injectors. It's probably easier and cheaper to try and find some > used, hopefully known good injectors, even if it's only one. Then you could > swap them one at a time and see if you find a bad one. There are a couple > of companies that do balancing and blueprinting of Motronic injectors. I > had mine done by Marren Motorsports back in the mid '90's, so I don't know > if they're still in business. They could perform just testing to check for > flow and pattern. > Beyond that, I just don't know. > > ~Holland > > On Feb 29, 2016 18:21, "Chad Rebuck" <chadreb...@gmail.com> wrote: > > The key in the cam gear is only there for the alignment until the bolt is > tightened. It doesn't really hold the cam gear in place once the bolt is > tightened. Same for the crank pulley too. The key can break if the bolt > gets loose enough for it to turn. > > I'm just curious how the engine sounds as you said it ran smoother for a > short while when you opened up the throttle. > > I'm about out of ideas. If you take it to a shop the first thing they're > going to do is check the timing again and check the compression I bet. > > On Feb 29, 2016 9:05 PM, "damac2004" <damac2...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > im afraid to run this car for long but what would be better, a video from > the engine bay or tailpipe? > > > > i didn't change the plug order, etc. when doing all this work, just popped > the distributor off and layed it in engine bay with battery out. > > > > the cam i took off the car did have the cam gear tooth broken but it > didn't move based on how the keyway lined up, is that surprising? i bought > another cam pulley off a vortex member and he sold it to me the exact same > way and told me every one he has taken off came the same way? i thought > that was nuts but have seen through forums searching it has happened to > others. i got a new cam pulley while doing all this work and its still > fine. and i have to assume the crank is fine as well since it was good > running and all the marks are lining up correctly still. > > On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 5:56:38 PM UTC-8, chadrebuck wrote: > > Also check that the cam sprocket is located in the right place on the cam. > If the tooth broke off of the cam gear then it could rotate causing the > timing to be incorrect. Did you mention that the cam sprocket had a broken > locating tooth? > > On Feb 29, 2016 7:47 PM, "Chad Rebuck" <chadr...@gmail.com> wrote: > > Changing the cams out will be a waste of time. What did you do to verify > the spark plug wire order? Can you take a video of how the car is running? > > On Feb 29, 2016 7:39 PM, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > i put the techtronics chip back in and put the older throttle body back in > with no changes in how the car is acting. i also checked grounds and ran > some extras to the bundle on head, etc. just in case. > > > > my issues make for a useless car, no way it could be driven. so my > problems seem way beyond the little tuning people do to get their cars > running right. this car ran and drove when i got it with very old and worn > injector seals and numerous vacuum lines with holes in it. it ran its best > when hot and on the throttle never gave out on me or died. although it had > goofy issues with starting consistently and idling a little > high/rough/inconsistent at times. > > > > and i see people mention 02 sensors and cts making for a rough running car > possibly but again this is way worse than that. > > > > i'm stuck so tomorrow i am going to put the old cams, etc. back on and > cross my fingers. > > On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 8:41:59 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote: > > Since the Mk 2 cars were all pre OBD, they had only one O2 sensor which > was mounted before the cat. So the ECU never knew if the cat even existed > or was functioning properly. Now that I think about it, if the O2 sensor > has no output, or was not connected, the ECU will go into "safe mode", > which is full rich. Hence your poor fuel mileage. I also recalled that the > O2 sensor on the Motronic cars is a three wire type, which means it has a > heater, so its output will become valid more quickly in order to reduce > emissions. All this is bringing back memories of all the 16V trivia I > acquired over the years. 😐 > > ~Holland > > On Feb 27, 2016 20:00, "damac2004" <dama...@sbcglobal.net> wrote: > > i could test compression but it it did drive fine before i tore it all > apart, after this incident. > > this car had no cat so 02 sensor was laying underneath airbox this whole > time :). > > i thought the car stunk and i got bad mileage but this car was fun to > drive. i was beating on itand it pulled when i stomped on it all the time > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "MK2-16v" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v. > To view this discussion on the web visit > 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