On 17/07/12 21:07, Andy Garlick wrote:
Dave
Before going down such a route consider some (debatably) easier options:
1 Is the car chipped?YES Optimax, This will richen the mixture
slightly and help it run cooler. Is the air filter clean?YES Are you
sure it is allowing the engine to breathe sufficiently? Try a K & N
type? Fitted Are you sure there are no air leaks allowing the engine
to lean off? Will Check
2 Is the alloy radiator larger than the original , or the same size?
My Mulfab one is deeper by several cms. Techniques Larger
3 Are you sure you don't have any air locks in the cooling sytem?
Reasonably sure, on the road engine nicely stable at 95-97 C
4 Have you changed the expansion tank cap recently, they can age and
allow the water to boil at a lower temperature.No but see previous
5 Have you backflushed the system recently , crud in the bottom of the
rad can affect water flows a lot. Backflushed no, Rad fitted 18months
annual change of coolant with pre rinse through
6 Is the number plate or anything else impeding the air flow into the
radiator core? No I am paranoid about anything in front of the grill,
no badge bar even
7 Are you positive that you don't have any head gasket issues? Checked
8 years ago, no issue on the road, just in traffic, but perhaps will
check. However oil always clear as new when changed. No sign of oil in
coolant.
Thanks Andy
Problem only occurs when stationary in traffic or slow moving. The
radiator is clear and the Spal fan works OK.
As above engine runs at a steady 95-97 when on the move except on very
hot days e.g. LeMans 2010 air temp 104F+
Regards
Dave
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* Dave Ager <[email protected]>
*To:* mogtalk2 <[email protected]>
*Sent:* Tuesday, 17 July 2012, 20:43
*Subject:* [mogtalk2] Plus eight water pump. Technical
Hi All.
My plus eight has the normal problem of getting hot when stationary.
I have opened the rear of the bonnet 40mm and fitted an aluminium rad.
Still have a slight issue.
Before fitting an oil cooler a guy at LeMans suggested fitting a
smaller pulley to the water pump to draw more water through the
system.
With a standard 97 3.9 hotwire I believe I may have room on the
pump to try this, engine doesn't rev as high as a worked 4.6.
However before I start machining a billet I would like to check
the pump characteristics to ensure I don't end up with cavitation
in the pump.
Currently toying with a 10-15 % speed increase.
Now the point . Can anyone provide a spec for the water pump,
preferably with characteristic curves.
Thanks in advance.
Dave
97 plus 8
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