Clearly he has never seen my spot welds. I believe mine to be the worst in 
welding history.
Paul,Evanston,Il.

From: GASKELL WALTER <[email protected]>
To: mogtalk2 <[email protected]> 
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2012 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: [mogtalk2] Plus 4 '07 Hood

GHAD THE SAME PROBLEM  ON MY 07 PLUS 4. STRIPPED HEADER RAIL
FROM HOOD, REMOVED RUBBER SEAL. DRILLED THE CRAP POP RIVETS
OUT THAT HOLD THE CLIPS, TOOK THE HEADER RAIL TO ENGINEER WHO
TOLD ME IT WAS THE WORST SPOT WELDING HE HAS EVER SEEN.
COMPLETELY RE WELDED BOTH SIDES. PERFECT JOB AND CHARGED
ME £15. HALF HOUR TO STRIP THE HOOD AND HALF MHOUR TO PUT IT
ALL BACK TOGETHER. I USED SMALL LOCKING NUTS AND BOLTS NOT
RIVITSTO REPLACE CLIPS. PERFECT JOB, LAST FOREVER, FACTORY
COULD LEARN HOW TO WELD
                                              WALT GASKELL
Traditional (24 hour) Aradite will also work, but the grey colour of JB Weld 
may be better on a hood iron. Both should take paint ok. But as JB Weld resists 
higher temperatures, if you have to buy glue, JB Weld is more useful in the 
workshop. There's a plug in the 4/4s engine made from the stuff that I made in 
1989! 
>The trick is to utterly degrease, and then do it again. I can't emphasise this 
>enough.
>
>rgds Martyn  
>
>On Jul 23 2012, ian wrote: On 22/07/12 18:10, Ian Wilson wrote:> Just tried to 
>raise hood after glorious afternoon run and one of the pivoting arms came away 
>from the metal of the header rail. Is this a weld/braise job (beyond my scope) 
>or are there other solutions?>> Many thanks> Ian WilsonI had one fail on my 
>mk1 Roadster. It was eventually re-welded by the factory. When the other side 
>went, I welded it myself. Welding is the only option I can 
>see.Ian-------------------------------------------View posts on The Mail 
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