That sounds like a good lower hassle compromise.  I have rebed several
fittings on my '84 17' and plan to finish the job this spring, but my
principal strategy, and the one I think I'll continue to use, is to keep the
boat covered when not in use, therefore exposing the deck to moisture only
when out on the water:  Of course, my strategy is easy for me because I keep
my boat on the trailer and just throw a big tarp over the whole thing when
the mast is down.  I'm thinking of pricing a sailmaker's fit cover that
would allow me to park her near the water with the mast up and I suppose
such a cover would be effective in a slip, also.  I imagine a cover would
also protect from the vagaries of ultraviolet rays, which would prolong the
life of the sealant.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 2:00 PM
Subject: M_Boats: Teak Bedding


Craig
What we do at the factory is after drilling a hole in the cored
area we mix a little dab of 5 minute epoxy on a small piece
of cardboard. (use a popcicle stick).
Then we use a Q-tip to lather the epoxy into the hole.
After about 20 minutes you can run the drill thru again.
I don't know if it helps. The balsa core does  seem to soak it
up. It sure makes us feel better :-)

Then bed with boatlife caulk as you would normally and tighen
properly.

In about 15 years the caulking will in some cases have shrunk and
cracked. Consider re-bedding before any water damage can
occur.

Later
Bob

Honshells wrote:

Jeff, I'm absolutely inspired by this alternative viewpoint, because,
besides my fiberglass repair and maintenance man in West Michigan, the best
in the business, I've never heard anyone else express it.  My repairman also
pooh-poohs the wisdom that holes for cored deck fittings should be routed
out and epoxied:  His point being that a poorly bedded fitting will allow
moisture to get to the core, whether the epoxy is there or not.  I
appreciate your point that the manufacturer does not instruct the user to
allow the bedding to dry.  Both the alternative view on bedding and the
alternative view on the use of epoxy, if scientifically sound, could be
liberating, because they require fewer steps.  My experience with epoxy has
been that it takes an alchemist to properly mix and apply the stuff.  I'd
like to see Practical Sailor (magazine) tests using both methods for each
process.  --Craig

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Grudin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 9:33 AM
Subject: M_Boats: Teak Bedding

This is an interesting topic.  A friend and I always have this
discussion and we don't have an answer.

I feel that leaving the bedding to set up and then tighten can lead to
some problems.  But as are the reasons given for doing this, mine are
also just conjecture.

My thought is that you only want the bedding compound to fill the small
spaces that are left after tightening the bolts, any more would be
excess. The water tight seal is formed as a result of the bond between
the bedding compound and the items being bedded, and the filling of
these small spaces.  I don't think the water tight seal is solely the
result of the bedding compound working as a gasket.  If it were,
wouldn't we be better off using a rubber gasket?  It would certainly be
easier and less messy.

The bedding compound "never hardens" leaving a soft gasket between the
items being bedded.  If allowed to dry first then tightened, you will
never get the items tightened as tight and motionless as without the
bedding compound. The excess would lead to more motion in the joint
which would have a tendency to break the bond between the compound and
items being bedded and lead to leakage faster.

The directions on the tube don't say to do let dry and then tighten, It
would seem that if it were a better technique, the manufacturer would
recommend it.

Does any one have an authoritative answer?

 ___

 73 de AC6KW      <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Jeff Grudin, DVM Web Add: http://www.grudin.net

Ocean Animal Clinic / Cat Clinic of Santa Cruz - Santa Cruz, California
Montgomery 23 Hull #072               Norcal QRP * QRP-L * ARS * AR Qrp



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