I've filled in my M17's Plexi window opening, installed opening ports, moved deck hardware, including my traveler, and even replaced my 3-pintal lifting rudder with a two-pintal kickup ... I've also repaired many nicks and scratches typical to a 20-year-old boat ... All the while having all the work done by a professional, who perfectly matched my gel ... I wouldn't recommend this from the standpoint of cost, but the RESULT: None of the old mounting holes, nicks, scratches, etc. that I have had repaired are detectable ... By ANYONE ... The guy I use is a perfectionist and true artist in fiberglass ... And charges less/hour than marinas ... Nevertheless, I respect the heck out of the do-it-yourselfers on this list who roll up their sleeves and "just do it", gleaning the satisfaction of self-sufficiency and staunching some of the financial hemorrhages of boat-ownership ... However, those of you familiar with my threads know I have physical limitations, so am not capable of some of the DIY ... So, my hat is off to the exceptionally capable individualists on this list who have tackled everything from paint to trailer overhauls to electrical to self-steering ... I wish I were one of you, but I ain't ...
----- Original Message ----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats' Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 1:15 PM Subject: Gel Coat Matching Bob, I had some glass work done on Busca (cockpit bulkhead instrument holes filled, sink and knotmeter thru-hulls filled) and the guy did a super job and matched the gelcoat perfectly. I've seen repair work that included duplicating sections of non-skid patterns that were even indiscernible with close inspection. That's skill. Unless doing enough of it to warrant the practice (and practice makes perfect), it's probably a whole lot less aggravating to just have a pro do it if you want it to *really look good*. If less than perfection is okay, then the tube of air-dry stuff isn't bad at all. ******* To de-core the centerboard pendant, you just slide the cover braid back to expose the core (start with a raw end, not a melted end), clip off the core the desired amount (enough to thread the cover braid into the board and tie a knot in it), then slide the cover braid back down and seal-melt the end of it to prevent fraying. Piece of cake. Tod M17 #408 BuscaBrisas -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Olson Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 12:01 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Gel Coat Matching Bill, From what I've been able to glean from various websites regarding gelcoat, is that its primarily a production process material. In other words, it works best when sprayed into a mold as the first layer in the production process before the layers of fiberglass. I have a feeling that it would be difficult to replicate the original gelcoat look by applying it over a hull repair. And, I'm guessing that it would need to be covered in order to cure properly. Typically, a boat shop would spray a water soluable material over the gelcoat as a final step. After the gelcoat had cured, then the top layer would be washed off. That's why I'm leaning toward a linear polyurathane (sp?) product. More expensive than cocaine, but it sounds as though it's the right product for post production repairs. How the hell do you de-core part of a rope for a centerboard pendant? That's the thing that got me boggled right now. --Bob _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
