Re: Lead versus Steel Ballast - If I may.... gotta love the internet - you can just butt in anytime you want! I drilled the keelson of my boat for a transducer about 11 years ago. Took me two if not 2.5 bimetal good quality hole saws to get thru the d#mn boat! Yes, I found the 'dreaded' steel. I thought 'darn this is less than perfect' and proceeded to install the transducer fitting using 3M 5200 making sure as always that a complete seal was made inside the boat and outside of course. This boat is dry sailed, 1980 model high on deferred maintenance until this last year (lack of use last ten years). I have experience ZERO problems with the centerboard and or keel. About 15 years ago I replaced the board pennant for the previous owner and no issues. I would like to spend some quality time lying on my back beneath the trunk - remove the board - clean and retape the edges as is well documented graphically by the Wrinkleboat wrepair wizard - Sean Mulligan. This exercise in goobies falling into my eyes and other head parts is preventative and for speed enhancements it would appear. No excess rust, no stuck board, no viagra-like swelling of the keel area. And all this in a 27 year old boat with steel punch drops for ballast. I guess I go off on this in a defensive stance - the earlier boats do not deserve the stigma of Bad Boat - steel ballast - if they are managed properly. Shoot if you want a no maint. boat get a Sunfish. Little headroom in mine but almost 0 maint. Lead is nice, but if one discounts all the 'early' - read "steel" boats you are very limited and have few and far more expensive choices available. IMnHO I seriously favor the original deck, interior and toerail. I looked long and hard to find my boat, and had the choice of many (ex Marine Idiot Professional) (MIP I believe coined by USSailing in the 80's) Marine Industry Professional - to prevent or separate amateur sail racers from professional sail racers. My choice was based on the: build quality at time of manufacture/interior layout-galley type/aluminum toerail. From about 1970 to the day Jerry quit building Montgomery's my family was a dealer for his boats, I knew and REALLY liked the early models. PS I think -- virtually all the 23's are steel -- ones that have had their ballast replace spent YEARs in the water - 15's and most 17's are not subjected to this immersion/galvanic action scenario, they are THE BEST TRAILERABLE SAILBOATS under 20 feet available! They are usually on a trailer - nice and dry, no blisters, bottompaint, galvanic issues, etc! Don't Worry - Be Happy - Go sailing. GO M-17 #316a a "Steelie" and darn proud of it! If the boat has been well cared for and the board is working when it has been dry (out of the water 24/7) for at least 30 days +- the wet boats need additional evaluation by PROFESSIONALS in the GRP industry. I cannot fathom a party buying a boat on a trailer and not checking the CB operation - Caveat Emptor!
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