Thanks, Tom, Bill, and Howard, for the response to my compression post
problems.  My posts are spar stock, not round.  I assume round would be more
stable.  Are the originals round (circular at the cap ends)?  Mine did have
caps screwed or bolted where they met at the bunk level, but not at the
block below the mast base.  There it was just jammed in place.  Not right.

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 10:27 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 62, Issue 7

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Today's Topics:

   1.  Raven ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
   2. Re: Raven (Larry E Yake)
   3. Re: Furling line (Tim Diebert)
   4.  Raven ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
   5. Mast step compression post bedding compound (David C. Patterson)
   6. Re: Mast step compression post bedding compound (Tom Smith)
   7. Re: Mast step compression post bedding compound
      ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
   8. Re: Mast step compression post bedding compound (Howard Audsley)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 23:47:52 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: M_Boats:  Raven
To: [email protected]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

You go Larry!!!! Two weeks in '09???  I'm in!  If I have to spend  a week on

the road, might as well spend two solid weeks enjoying the  trip!!!! I wish
it 
were this year.......14 months to go!
 
Saving my vacation time already!
 
Sean
M23 Dauntless



**************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.

 
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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 21:09:27 -0700
From: Larry E Yake <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Raven
To: [email protected]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Better start saving gas money, too!
 
On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 23:47:52 EDT [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> You go Larry!!!! Two weeks in '09???  I'm in!  If I have to spend  a 
> week on 
> the road, might as well spend two solid weeks enjoying the  trip!!!! 
> I wish it 
> were this year.......14 months to go!
>  
> Saving my vacation time already!
>  
> Sean
> M23 Dauntless
> 
> 
> 
> **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel 
> Guides.    
>   
>
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv000300000000
16)
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
> 
> 
 



------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 15:37:38 -0700
From: "Tim Diebert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Furling line
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"
        <[email protected]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"

My 17  had a furler on it when I bought it. For the short time it was there
(I am not a fan) I used stantion mounted fairleads to run furling line back
to the coaming and to a swivel cam cleat.

It gets line and hardware off the narrow side deck. They work very well and
look like this.

http://relimg.reliancemarine.com/455.jpg

My units swivel and adjust to suit the line angle....but the one pictured is
fixed I believe. You get the idea.
Mine is now used for a downhaul.

Tim in Kelowna
M17




-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 2:05 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: M_Boats: Furling line

I'm putting a CDI furler on my M-17 and would like to take advantage of 
others experience as to the best way to run the furling line back to the
cockpit.   
There are at least a couple of ways I can think of to do it, so if anyone 
particularly likes (or doesn't like, and would do it differently if they had
it 
to do over) the arrangement they have, I'd like to know how you did it and
why 
you either like (or don't like) it.   I'm trying to minimize the holes in
the 
deck, particularly since the next one I drill will be my first, so I'd like
to 
get it at least close to   right the first time.

Thanks and Happy Spring to all!

Rick
M-17 #633
Lynne L


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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 11:12:01 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: M_Boats:  Raven
To: [email protected]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

No kidding!  I have to figure out a way to tow her with my little  Toyota 
with its 22RE four banger!
 
Last year's fuel bill was over $1000.00.....can't even imagine what next  
year's will be.....man, Jo's gonna have to work a lot of overtime!   ;-)
 
Sean



**************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.

 
(http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016)


------------------------------

Message: 5
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 09:44:43 -0600
From: "David C. Patterson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: M_Boats: Mast step compression post bedding compound
To: <[email protected]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"

Here's something that I need help and information about that perhaps someone
on the list has dealt with.  My new/old M17 Cloud Girl (#393) is sitting on
the trailer while I get acquainted with all the work ahead of me.  I want to
get her on the water this summer at a local reservoir.  But...I bought the
boat based on an ad, sight unseen, because it was too far away.  The ad
cited a new mast as one attraction.  Of course, I began to wonder.  What
happened to the old one?  I learned that it broke off at the spreaders, no
reason given why.  I found the port shroud turnbuckles had some bent toggles
and damaged parts to replace (and she is more than overdue for all the
standing rigging to be re-done).  Looking further into things I discovered
that the mast compression post seemed not to be quite straight.  So I delved
even further to discover my current problem.  Under the forward berth there
is a 15 inch post down to the mast step.  The mast step is partly molded
into the liner.  My compression post there is of the same stock as my boom,
2 inch diameter and complete with sail groove. (Please pardon my lack of
nautical terms here.)  It was definitely not vertical, but at an observable
angle, and crudely bedded in silicon caulk.  I took out the upper post, and
removed wires that were running in the sail groove of that (in fact removed
all the wiring for future replacement), and cut the caulk to release the
lower compression post.  I discovered one end of the post was poorly
sawn--uneven--but I easily filed it flat (with only 45 minutes of steady
labor).  Now...what do I use to re-bed it on the step?  The silicon caulk
was easy to remove, but seems not to provide any strength at an important
spot.  Would 3M 5200 or some similar stuff be a better choice?  Should some
sort of metal or plastic keeper be bonded in place?  I am in a "do-it-right"
frame of mind about this.  When I put the upper post back I think I also
need to know how to properly connect it to the 3/4 inch wooden backer for
the mast connection above, as well.  Anybody out there have any information
or advice for me about these problems?
        And Danielle in Ketchikan, my daughter lived in Ketchikan, not me.
But I got to see where you are.  For sailing, it beats being a mile up in a
near desert.  Oh well!  
David in Boulder  






------------------------------

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 08:55:42 -0700
From: "Tom Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast step compression post bedding compound
To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'"
        <[email protected]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain;       charset="us-ascii"


I suspect, because there is only compression loading on the support, sheer
strength is really not important with the lower post David, and that 5200
would work fine.  Matter of fact, it's probably better not to install it in
a more permanent fashion so you can remove it easily in the future if
necessary.  5200 is probably permanent enough.

I've never removed the upper compression post, so I don't know how it's
connected. Someone else will have to weight in on that one...

Tom
Just My 2 Cents  




------------------------------

Message: 7
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 12:01:12 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast step compression post bedding compound
To: [email protected]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

If I understand correctly you are asking what to use as a structural gap  
filler to be used in compression at the base of the mast. If that's the
question 
then the answer is NO. No caulk is structural in compression.  Adhesive
caulk 
like 5200 could be termed "structural" for gluing but not  structural in 
compression  where the surface isn't supposed to  flex. Build the gap with 
structural epoxy filler.
 
Bill P.



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------------------------------

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 11:26:53 -0500
From: Howard Audsley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mast step compression post bedding compound
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
        <[email protected]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

On my 1978 M17, there are two compression posts inside the cabin.

http://www.msogphotosite.com/MSOG/b17audasea/b17audasea2.jpg

and

http://www.msogphotosite.com/MSOG/b17audasea/b17audasea4.jpg

One above the bunk and a shorter one under the bunk. Going from memory 
but it seems to me that both are round tubes fitted inside brackets 
that are screwed in place. Sounds like somebody has jury rigged a 
replacement.

And a new problem I've never heard of before! I think you will be 
happier if you can replace those tubes and brackets with original 
equipment. The mast step can be replaced too. Some really nice ones 
have been made.

An equally big job might be getting all the mast hardware installed in 
all the right places. All of these would be important for performance 
and structural integrity. I'd go slow on this one. Be patient and get 
it right.

Howard




On Apr 7, 2008, at 10:55 AM, Tom Smith wrote:

>
> I suspect, because there is only compression loading on the support, 
> sheer
> strength is really not important with the lower post David, and that 
> 5200
> would work fine.  Matter of fact, it's probably better not to install 
> it in
> a more permanent fashion so you can remove it easily in the future if
> necessary.  5200 is probably permanent enough.
>
> I've never removed the upper compression post, so I don't know how it's
> connected. Someone else will have to weight in on that one...
>
> Tom
> Just My 2 Cents
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
>




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